PARIS — Don’t expect Roberto Menichetti, who will show his first collection for Celine here today, to tap into patterns and motifs from exotic places like so many European designers this season. “I was inspired by the allure of...
PARIS — Don’t expect Roberto Menichetti, who will show his first collection for Celine here today, to tap into patterns and motifs from exotic places like so many European designers this season. “I was inspired by the allure of Parisian women,” he said during a preview on Wednesday. “It’s a kind of femininity you can’t find anywhere else in the world. I really would like to give [Celine] this kind of allure.”
The fact that Menichetti is already mining Celine’s bourgeois French roots — and referencing French painter Sonia Delaunay — suggests the Italian designer isn’t planning a major overhaul of the 59-year-old brand, which is part of the LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton fashion empire. “I really believe in the product, and I really believe in this job,” he said between fittings on Wednesday. “Everything has to be real.” Unprompted, Menichetti expressed admiration for the work done by his predecessor, Michael Kors, who exited Celine last spring after a successful, if bumpy, six-year stint to concentrate on building his signature label. “Michael made Celine international,” he said. “I think he did a very nice job.”
Menichetti — whose design career has included working for Claude Montana in Paris, Burberry in London, Jil Sander in Hamburg, Germany, and doing his own signature line, which he continues to show in New York — is no slouch himself in the global department. This American-born resident of Gubbio, a medieval town nestled in Italy’s Umbrian hills, confesses a strong affinity for the U.S. and the sportswear attitude for which it’s known. “I really believe Celine must not be vulgar at all,” he said. “We’re trying to find a new way to be elegant.”
For spring, Menichetti is concentrating on soft shapes, such as shift dresses with slightly bubble-shaped skirts. “It’s extremely important how you can respect and give shape to the body,” the designer said. “Everything caresses.” His fascination with how clothes are constructed is evident in a Grecian-style dress based on the construction of a kilt — and expect to see some dark blues, his signature shade.
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Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
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As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
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24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews