Cacharel was cute and stylish; Costume National, sexy and steamy. Meanwhile, Dries Van Noten stayed folkloric and Loewe had a touch of the gaucho.
Cacharel: Mini skirts and maxi color. That’s what Suzanne Clements and Inacio Ribeiro served up at Cacharel for spring. Since their arrival five seasons ago, the husband-and-wife design duo has gained credence with teenagers who love cute and stylish clothes. This time, their ingénues also came with a dash of sex. But by playing grown-up sensuality against teen naïveté, their version was hardly blatant in-your-face sex. Floating micro-minis, for example, were paired with oversized boyfriend sweatshirts that dangled from the shoulder, while revealing chiffon dresses looked mischievously cute in candy-colored prints. Think Brigitte Bardot cavorting in Saint Tropez. Indeed, much of the collection oozed Sixties style, with bold red or green striped sailor T-shirts and artsy prints, including graphic parasol swirls and garlands of jasmine. Although much seemed suited for some sunny fantasyland, plenty was geared to cool schoolgirls as well, from motorcycle cotton trousers and utility blousons to rougher leather separates. Clements and Ribeiro continue to make Cacharel fetching and fun.
Costume National: Ennio Capasa’s spring collection for Costume National offered a steamy vision of feminine intrigue, one that took inspiration from the silky sensuality of the boudoir and brought it out onto the boulevard. A gray satin pajama top rode off-the-shoulder and was paired with tap shorts, while corset tops were plentiful, including many that stretched south like the stays on a teddy. Some of the best pieces, however, were Capasa’s hook-and-eye trenchcoats, belted tight and worn with nothing underneath, of course.
The designer took classically sexy silhouettes and snipped a bit here and a bit there until they were even sexier. A pink satin miniskirt, for instance, was cut out around the hips to look as if it were riding low over a garter belt. If Capasa’s hot-to-trot look overheated at times — and it did — we can only imagine that those minis won’t be cut quite so mini when they’re shipped to stores.
Dries Van Noten: Dries Van Noten has chosen a very specific look, and he sticks to it singlemindedly, taking his folksy ethnic fashion a couple of degrees to the North, the East or West each season, without ever really leaving the vicinity. Of course, that means, as the merry-go-round of trends spins, sometimes his look is spot on, and sometimes it’s not even close.Last season, Van Noten’s sophisticated, intricate folk collection looked just right. This season, though he showed plenty of sunny and pretty pieces, including loose gauzy camisoles paired with embroidered circle skirts, as a whole the collection didn’t pack the same wallop. Show notes claimed influences that ranged from punk rock to the Fifties, but it all looked like classic Van Noten instead. Hopefully, that’s just what his customers are looking for.
Loewe: Playing on the house’s Spanish heritage, as Narciso Rodriguez did before him, Jose Enrique Ona Selfa brought a hint of gaucho swagger to Loewe this season. His brief 23-look show included a clever leather dress perforated with buttonholes from which jaunty leather flounces were hung and others cut in both leather and suede with sporty racer backs. Flat copper buttons decorated some looks, running down the ankles of cream leather pants and studding an A-line skirt.
The collection, Ona Selfa’s second for the house, was much more focused than his debut effort. He played it safe, showing more wearable clothes this time around. But he’s not out of the woods yet — the label still lacks a clear image and the identity of the Loewe customer has not yet been defined.
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews
“Stranger Things” is getting a new cast member for season 2. Meet @sadiesink_, the 15-year-old who will be joining the Netflix series for its new season. You may recognize her from “The Glass Castle” with Brie Larson and Woody Harrelson, but the Texas native’s next role goes in an entirely different direction. She describes her character, Max, as “a rough and tumble skater girl [who] becomes friends with the boys at school.” The second season debuts on October 27. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdeye
Amid the Harvey Weinstein controversy, there’s another sector that’s being put under the spotlight for sexual abuse: the modeling industry. While rumors about abuse and sexual harassment of female and male models — and the photographers, agents and others who perpetrated it — have circulated within the fashion world for years, model @cameronrussell started posting stories from models on Instagram last week about abusive situations they’ve encountered — from sexual harassment and molestation to attempted rape. Over 75 have weighed in so far. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews
To celebrate its 16th anniversary, @dylanscandybar tapped designers and celebrities to create mosaics out of candy. The mosaics will be auctioned off to support the philanthropic cause of each participant’s choice. Pictured here is the mural created by @aliceandolivia's Stacey Bendet. For a first look at some of the other artwork being unveiled tonight, go to WWD.com. #wwdeye
The annual Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic in Pacific Palisades this weekend drew Kate Hudson, Tracee Ellis Ross, Laura Dern and more. See pictures of the star-studded event on WWD.com. (📷: @chelsealaurenla) #wwdeye
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye