It's all about dresses this season, from cozy little knitted numbers to all-out glamorous gowns.

Carlos Miele: Carlos Miele is a designer known for making pretty dresses, so when he cited French philosopher Gilles Deleuze and his book "The Fold: Leibniz and the Baroque" as his inspiration for fall, it made one wonder: Has the boy from São Paolo ditched the red-carpet thrills for loftier fare? But au contraire. The "fold, refold and unfold" metaphysics slant made perfect sense in his many pleated confections — undulating ruffled hems, simple kick pleats and, of course, those liquid tumbles à la Madame Grès — without sacrificing any of the label's signature sex appeal. To be sure, the social lot will find gala gowns galore. But it's the winterwear, including cashmere sweaters, alpaca hand-knits, chubby fox fur vests and shantung coats, that proves Miele is finally willing to step beyond the samba heat.

Zero Maria Cornejo: Season after season, an intimate fashion flock of editors, retailers and stylists gather at Maria Cornejo's white-walled Mott Street boutique for the unveiling of a new collection. There are no paparazzi or Hollywood types smiling for that front-row moment. The focus here is on the clothes. And what clothes there were: an oversized tweed belted coat with a gently curving hem, effortless and cozy knits, tapestry wrap dresses and ruched circle waistcoats, even frocks with a touch of lace-and-velvet romance — all rendered with the label's trademark sculptural ease. Perhaps it's best that Cornejo works under the fashion hoopla radar, because her clothes are tailor-made for girls of downtown, anonymous cool.

Temperley London: Alice Temperley is in a Hollywood state of mind. For starters, her fall collection was inspired by the studios of the Thirties and Forties, and to that end she named each of her looks after the grand dames of Hollywood's Golden Age: Dietrich, Davis, Garland and Harlow. Indeed, everything Temperley sent out had that certain old-time je ne sais quoi glamour, like gray velvet smokings, embroidered cropped jackets, intarsia'd tunics and sweater dresses. "The devil is a woman," read the show notes, channeling a 1935 Dietrich flick, but she's also one heck of a gussied-up gal — embellished, macraméd and bedecked to an almost dizzying point. Given Temperley's recent foray into Los Angeles with a Melrose Place boutique, it seems the Hollywood tune she's singing — with all those column gowns and spruced-up eveningwear — is the red-carpet one.Zaldy: Talk about a comeback kid. Zaldy Goco got down to business Thursday night, presenting a knockout collection filled with sophisticated, beautifully tailored clothes. Gone were the tricky details and artsy dramatics of seasons past that only really suited the rock stars he costumed. Yet there were indeed elements of stage flair here, but combined with wearability. There were dresses galore, draped and belted, some with accents of point d'esprit. Hand-painted skinny jeans, angora knitted into ruffled sweaters or oversized collars on coats, as well as uptown-worthy pleated pants in suede were also here. The hits just kept on coming.

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