Joey Tierney: At the debut collection of rock ‘n’ roll stylist Joey Tierney, standouts included pretty emerald green silk dresses and skinny pants with punky zip details.
Yaya Aflalo: Cozy cashmere knits and delicately beaded silk dresses were the epitome of California cool at Yael Aflalo’s show.
As Is by Alvin Valley: Fashion moguls-in-training Ali Hilfiger, Nicky Hilton and Kim Kardashian cheered, even though Alvin Valley’s contemporary tailored basics looked uninspired.
Literature Noir: This is far from a complete collection as of yet — too many tights in place of real bottoms — but designers Elliot Hans and Kaya B. showed some terrific leather jackets and tops.
Tuesday, March 20th Imitation of Christ: Complete with skulking models and a bone-covered runway, Tara Subkoff delivered a Gothic-meets-glitter lineup at Imitation of Christ. The surprise? It was completely wearable. She mixed street-chic basics — skinny black jeans, slouchy leather trenches, slashed tuxedo shirts — with beaded one-offs reworked from vintage fabrics and materials, resulting in looks that were equally edgy and relaxed.
Tart: Keeping the jersey trend alive, Tart’s Sherry Wood turned out a nice series of sexy halter numbers and Empire dresses in bold graphic prints.
Ed Hardy by Christian Audigier: The fist-pumping, cat-calling Janice Dickinson in the front row was about as surprising as Christian Audigier’s latest collection, which was full of more of the same: logo Ts, trucker hats and crystal-trimmed tracksuits and jeans.
Joseph Domingo: The smattering of nice retro-feeling coats and body-conscious cocktail dresses didn’t make up for Joseph Domingo’s overall prom-gone-wrong look.
Monday, March 19th Minimal, High-Minded and Louche At Gen Art's The New Garde 2007, three promising collections, shown simultaneously via interactive installations, stuck true to the organization's artsy roots. For her Alms collection, French stylist Isabelle Carter featured appealingly minimal sand-washed silk dresses and tops paired with drop-yoke cotton sateen skirts and trousers as well as feminine knits with Parisian flair, such as sailor stripes and ruffles at the neck. Meanwhile, at Hazel Brown, designer and painter Ali Blankley placed her models in a "Little House on the Prairie"-style kitchen to demonstrate her impressive craftsmanship and seamstress skills. The raw yet refined dresses, tops and sweaters were just the sort of clothes hipsters like Blankley would wear from studio to gallery opening. And at Mintee, former Alexander McQueen assistant Mintee Kalra presented a group of louche young French aristocrats waving ostrich plumes as they lounged on settees. Their quilted velvet blouson jackets looked great, as did the pleated and tucked satin and chiffon minidresses and gowns done in hues of rose and gold fit for a modern-day Marie Antoinette.Eight's Ball Box Eight, a collaborative of designers and artists, took over the ballroom of the legendary Los Angeles Theatre (built by Charlie Chaplin) to present shows it had funded featuring the work of 10 West Coast firms. The 17 designs, all with a Goth traveling-circus undercurrent, ranged from the wearable — Kristen Coates’ feather-trimmed black chiffon dress — to the highly theatrical — Adele Mildred’s Victorian-style cage skirts and Goddollars’ burlesque-ready, jet-beaded necklace top. Other standouts came from two Gen Art alumni: Suzy Yun’s off-white, racer-back balloon dress at Unhee and Kit Pistol’s ruffled black corduroy coat. Two stand-alone shows were also added to the mix. Jared Gold’s Black Chandelier collection evoked a utilitarian prairie girl in such looks as a flirty Holly Hobbie dress, — worn by a fuchsia-tressed drag queen — military-inspired swing coats and a fun gingham skirt worn with a gold-foil-motif hoodie. The next night, Eduardo Lucero showed his signature Eighties-style glam evening pieces, this time with peekaboo cutouts. The best in show here: his elegant brown caftan dress.
Juan Carlos Obando:Juan Carlos Obando offered an appealing take on deconstruction by giving it an edge with a pleasant prettiness. There was a strong focus on draping, which found its way onto necklines of gowns or backs of jackets, not to mention a plethora of pleats and folds. A black organza tunic dress, for example, looked avant-garde with its sleeves fashioned out of folds. Jackets, which topped many of the looks, were cropped and easy. Obando's collections have been hit-or-miss over the years, but this one was filled with pieces that could work their way into many a woman's wardrobe.
Sue Wong: While Sue Wong once again delivered money-makers — bright florals, Asian-inspired prints and otherwise beaded and embellished numbers — she also showed some new silhouettes: geometric-print halters, a trapeze shape and a great little Mod shift with metal fringe. Alas, that predictable flapper soon found its way back onto Wong's runway.
Collection Bebe: All the girls about town were there for David Cardona's third collection for Bebe. There was Emilie de Ravin, on hiatus from "Lost," a flame-haired Lydia Hearst and the brand's newest face, Rebecca Romijn. It's too bad Grace Jones wasn't there, since she seemed to have inspired the collection with urban-warrior garb that went awry. Skintight minidresses accented with leather bandeaus or gold zippers mingled with sleeveless parkas or jersey evening gowns, many of which were topped off with hoods. Yes, there were a few wearable pieces in the mix, but Cardona went a little too far with his hard-core costumes.The Battalion: At fledgling line The Battalion, Linda and Chrys Wong took inspiration from Edgar Allan Poe and Sherlock Holmes with cape jackets and voluminous sleeve dresses made from eco-friendly bamboo and organic cotton, proving that there’s nothing dull about these Earth-conscious fabrics.
Dina Bar-El: Following a Forty Deuce striptease opener, Dina Bar-El sent out a burlesque-inspired collection that was far too literal with body-hugging dresses and her standard fishtail glamour gowns.
Voom by Joy Han: Filled with flirty, voluminous dresses, Joy Han’s collection was pretty, but the schizophrenic array of prints was a bit much.
Octavio Carlin: Octavio Carlin showed a surprising facility for the trenchcoat, cutting it in colorful wools with feminine details, but his gowns and dresses would have benefited from better fits and workmanship.
Suh Tahn: Shannon Nataf and Dimitri Tcharfas gave basics an edge in Suh Tahn’s collection with a stark palette of belted dresses reminiscent of priestly robes and billowy hoodies à la Obi-Wan Kenobi.
Lorun: For her debut collection, Fashion Institute of Technology grad and former Zac Posen intern Lauren Wallack sent out a salable, though not entirely original, group of Mod-inspired knits, jackets and skinny jeans fit for rebellious Beverly Hills PYTs.
Friday, March 16th
Kitten Caboodle You know there’s a problem when, an hour after the shows were supposed to begin, the runway is still being built.
In fact, the production values of Kitten Fashion Week, the Kitten magazine-sponsored event that ran Thursday through Saturday at The Downtown Standard in Los Angeles, could hardly have been worse.
But once the models finally hit the runway — three hours late — there were several high points. At Ziji, for instance, Gen Art alums Nansi Aluka and Katerina Gabbro delivered an appealing lineup of bib-front sheath dresses and double-cuffed men’s shirts worn with classic trousers.
Lauren Alexander and Kevin Johnn, however, had the Eighties on their minds. Alexander showed a spiffy athletic-inspired collection embellished with gold zippers and pops of cobalt blue and neon colors, while Johnn, a former “Project Runway” contestant, channeled Azzedine Alaïa with minimal bodysuits and minidresses in black, white or red.Meanwhile, at Pudel, Scandinavian designer Lina Osterman took a tough-girl route with ripped and shredded layers that seemed cool and wearable, even on the strung-out-looking models.
Corey Lynn Calter: Stepping beyond her usual Fifties party frocks, Corey Lynn Calter sent out an East Coast coed who’s quirky, but still likes to show a little leg. Charming looks included Modigliani and Malevich-inspired printed minis, and wide-legged pants teamed with skinny sweaters and silk blouses. Calter hit the right notes when she stuck to simple lines complemented by pops of color.
For complete coverage of L.A. Fashion Week, stay tuned to WWD.com.
The annual Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic in Pacific Palisades this weekend drew Kate Hudson, Tracee Ellis Ross, Laura Dern and more. See pictures of the star-studded event on WWD.com. (📷: @chelsealaurenla) #wwdeye
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye
"Nowadays when life is not so happy with everything going on in the world, I think people come to me for a little bit of whimsy and color and fun." - Designer Rebecca De Ravenel on her cult-favorite jewelry line. (📸 : @vsteves) #wwd40
“Everyone is talking about how the retail industry is struggling, but I think it’s an incredible time because brands who are doing something different and innovative are setting themselves up for the future,” said @adamgoldston, who founded the luxury athletic brand @apl with his brother @ryangoldsten. The Goldston’s are part of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables. See the rest of the list on WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
@eyeswoon blogger Athena Calderone debuted her first-ever cookbook, “Cook Beautiful,” which is heavily centered on the presentation and visual expression of food. Pictured here are her miso glazed carrots from the book. Get the recipe on WWD.com. (📷: @johnny_miller_) #wwdeye
“It’s passion that helps get anybody to a certain point and it’s what’s propelled me,” said Kith founder @ronniefieg, one of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables who are changing the face of retail, fashion and beauty. Fieg, who opened a Manhattan flagship on October 7, began his career at age 13 as a stock boy and salesman for footwear chain David Z. “I think staying true to [my] beliefs, hard work and passion have gotten me to where [Kith] is today.” See the rest of the 40 at WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
25-year-old @samweaving is about to break out this fall, starring in Netflix’s horror film “The Babysitter,” fittingly out today on Friday the 13th. That’s not the only place you’ll be seeing her, though — Weaving’s got a role Showtime’s “SMILF” and another alongside Frances McDormand and Woody Harrelson in “Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri.” Though she’s got a full plate at the moment, there’s one role she’s got her eye on: Marilyn Monroe. “I’m a little too young at the moment, but it’s on my bucket list,” the actress told WWD (📷: @dandoperalski) #wwdeye
BFF's Poppy Jamie and Suki Waterhouse celebrated the launch of their bag line Pop x Suki at Nordstrom last night. "The line is really about our friendship, and how we are so different but complement each other," said Waterhouse. 👯 (📷: Katie Jones) #wwdeye
After designing the new @louisvuitton and @bulgariofficial flagships and a @chanelofficial boutique opening in Japan, @petermarinoarchitect has another project on his plate: The Lobster Club. Located in the Seagram Building, it’s the famed architect’s first restaurant project in New York, serving up modern Japanese brasserie-style cuisine. Bronze hues, bespoke material detailing, blush and chartreuse tones and a heavy emphasis on Picasso can be seen throughout. Mark your calendars for Nov. 1 for the much-anticipated opening. (📷: @clint_spaulding) #wwdeye