NEW YORK -- The fur shows pushed on last Thursday, and from Marc Jacobs' antics at Birger Christensen to Revillon's extravagant homage to Russia, it was an exciting day.

Bad boy Marc Jacobs is giving his fans lots of options this season -- and they all look terrific. His latest show for Birger Christensen featured several amusing slants on schoolgirls -- from slightly offbeat to racy to downright truant. Most of the furs were shown with an academic accent -- there were plenty of flannels, pinstripes, white blouses and skimpy pullovers. Jacobs also went wild with color, especially in the orange and yellow shearlings and fuchsia Mongolian lamb chubbies trimmed in lime green. For Seventies diehards, there was a white mink mini and trenchcoat. But even Jacobs' straightest groupies will be satisfied. They can opt for the marginally more conservative black patent shearling coat or suit.

Revillon was simply grand -- a tribute to the history and romance of Russia. Michael Robinson, the firm's United States vice president, spent two weeks visiting the country's palaces and museums, sketching elaborate gate patterns or tapestries and soaking up the influence of Catherine the Great. All that inspiration was reflected in furs designed by Gianfranco Ferre, Genny and Jean-Paul Avizou. Best were the elaborately embroidered shearling jackets and coats; long cashmere coats trimmed in sable, and the ermine, lynx or Barguzine sables shaped into thoroughly modern short swing coats, long wraps and parkas. But even Catherine the Great could have lived without those Mongolian lamb-trimmed imperial blue cashmere numbers and the green mink dinner suits.

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