EVIAN, France — To Marcel Frydman, a beauty retailer must be part sector expert, part psychologist.
And he should know: Frydman’s been in this business for 18 years, building Marionnaud Parfumeries from scratch to become the 1,084-door perfumery chain it is today.
"Many women come to us when they are worried, down, perhaps even when they are depressed," Frydman, Marionnaud’s president, said during his keynote address. "It is quite common that, in such a case, the client who was not feeling too great leaves the store feeling much better than when she came in."
The secret, he said, is customer service, which leads to customer loyalty. "We all offer more or less the same assortment of products, and the prices are often pretty equivalent," he continued, referring to his fellow retailers. "If one store is more successful, more attractive [to the consumer], it’s because the experience there is more pleasurable."
Marionnaud has been aggressively rolling out its traditional, service-oriented perfumery concept by acquiring and converting existing stores across 13 countries, including France, Switzerland, Italy and Eastern Europe, over the past four years as part of a high-speed expansion plan.
"Consolidation is a sign of our times, across the board in all industries," he said. "I think it’s been a good thing in our industry, as in most."
He did, however, warn that consolidation is not always beneficial. The extinction of independent perfumeries in sparsely populated areas could be detrimental to the beauty industry, he said. "If they were to disappear, the only alternative for the consumer would be to turn to the mass market, and that would be unfortunate for our profession, and it would have disadvantageous effects on small [beauty] manufacturers."
Another danger for the industry, according to Frydman, is the gray market, which increases the pressure on beauty retailers. "We strive to meet qualitative standards that correspond to best practices…but there are plenty of others who couldn’t care less and buy their products on parallel markets," he said.
But despite such woes and the troubled world economy, Frydman said he remains confident the beauty industry will hold its own, as it did in the days of the Gulf War."[Then], we drew the following conclusion: A woman who has to face the worst, most terrible experiences still wears a day cream, a moisturizer, makeup and fragrance," he said.
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
For men’s fall 2018, @giuseppezanotti drew on elements from streetwear, sport, biker, combat and rock ‘n’ roll. Pictured here are a pair of shoes from the collection, featuring zippers, rhinestones, and silver hardware. Head to WWD.com to see a roundup of the accessories from Milan’s men’s fall 2018 shows. #wwdfashion (📷: Andrea Delb)
To celebrate the 25th anniversary of @ralphlauren’s snowboarding collection, the brand is mining its archives. The iconic brand is reintroducing vintage styles and dropping new designs for a color capsule that will be available in Ralph Lauren stores and @openingceremony on January 25. The capsule will consist of 10 pieces, including the Snow Beach Pullover, pictured here, which is a collector’s item that rapper Raekwon wore in Wu-Tang Clan’s “Can It Be All So Simple” video. #wwdfashion (📷: Tom Gould)
For @rochasofficial’s pre-fall 2018 collection, creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua channeled the sophisticated and intriguing Catherine Denevue in the film “Belle de Jour.” Polished collarless coats, midi skirts, suits and ’60s graphic motifs were all featured in the collection, adding a sense of discreet luxury. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion
“We tried to produce clothing of that couture quality, but the most daunting part was that we only had a matter of days [to do it],” said costume designer Lou Eyrich, who recreated Gianni Versace’s iconic looks for @americancrimestoryfx. Eyrich searched online retailers and vintage shops for original pieces from the design house and for @penelopecruzoficial, who plays Donatella Versace. Head to WWD.com to read how she created the Versace world. #wwdfashion
Only three months after her stellar debut catwalk season, @kaiagerber has inked her first big design collaboration –– with @karllagerfeld. The collection blends Lagerfeld’s Parisian chic aesthetic and the model’s signature West Coast casual style via RTW, accessories, footwear and more. The #KarlLagerfeldxKaia collection will launch in September with a series of events. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
Harrods plans to remove the famous statue of Princess Diana and Dodi Al Fayed from the bottom of the Egyptian escalators and hand it back to Mohamed Al-Fayed. “We are very proud to have played our role in celebrating the lives of Diana, Princess of Wales and Dodi Al Fayed at Harrods and to have welcomed people from around the world to visit the memorial for the past 20 years,” said Michael Ward, Harrods managing director. “With the announcement of the new official memorial statue to Diana, Princess of Wales at Kensington Palace, we feel that the time is right to return this memorial to Mr. Al Fayed and for the public to be invited to pay their respects at the palace.” More on the news, with reporting by @loreleimarfil, at WWD.com. #wwdnews