NEW YORK — Emanuel, once a leading resource in the bridge sportswear department, is making a comeback.
The line is reportedly being launched by G.A.V., thenew company formed by Andrew Grossman and Alexander Vreeland, as well as Jay Schottenstein. Sources said the Emanuel line is being shown to retailers for October, November and December deliveries.G.A.V. officials declined comment.
Reached late Friday in Paris, a spokeswoman for Emanuel Ungaro confirmed the relaunch of the Emanuel bridge line under Vreeland and Leonardo Ferragamo.
As reported, G.A.V. hooked up with Phillips-Van Heusen Corp. and Kellwood Co. last week as part of the CK Calvin Klein deal. G.A.V. will handle the design, sales and marketing for the CK women’s collection, while Kellwood will do production, financial operations and logistics.
Emanuel was originally licensed to GFT USA Corp. It hasn’t been in the market since fall 2000.
Launched in 1991, Emanuel was conceived for the U.S. market and became a $150 million operation in just five years. In 1996, it was hailed as GFT’s most profitable division, and by 1997, its wholesale volume was reported to have reached a peak of about $160 million. But when sales in the bridge category began to nosedive, Emanuel reportedly overloaded stores with merchandise and had to pay substantial markdowns, and sales fell to about $75 million.
In 1998, Maura deVisscher, chief executive officer of Emanuel, and Kim Perrone, president and chief operating officer, were ousted. Mary Wang succeeded them, but stayed only six months. After her departure, former GFT USA ceo Ron Frasch assumed responsibility for Emanuel, until the license was given up.
In spring 2000, deVisscher and Perrone returned to the business and set up a company, deV&P, which bought Adrienne Vittadini and acquired the license for the Emanuel/Emanuel Ungaro bridge line from the Salvatore Ferragamo company, which controls the Emanuel Ungaro brand and owned a minority stake in deV&P. In less than a year, deV&P closed and was liquidated.
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast