NEW YORK — Emanuel, once a leading resource in the bridge sportswear department, is making a comeback.

The line is reportedly being launched by G.A.V., thenew company formed by Andrew Grossman and Alexander Vreeland, as well as Jay Schottenstein. Sources said the Emanuel line is being shown to retailers for October, November and December deliveries.G.A.V. officials declined comment.

Reached late Friday in Paris, a spokeswoman for Emanuel Ungaro confirmed the relaunch of the Emanuel bridge line under Vreeland and Leonardo Ferragamo.

As reported, G.A.V. hooked up with Phillips-Van Heusen Corp. and Kellwood Co. last week as part of the CK Calvin Klein deal. G.A.V. will handle the design, sales and marketing for the CK women’s collection, while Kellwood will do production, financial operations and logistics.

Emanuel was originally licensed to GFT USA Corp. It hasn’t been in the market since fall 2000.

Launched in 1991, Emanuel was conceived for the U.S. market and became a $150 million operation in just five years. In 1996, it was hailed as GFT’s most profitable division, and by 1997, its wholesale volume was reported to have reached a peak of about $160 million. But when sales in the bridge category began to nosedive, Emanuel reportedly overloaded stores with merchandise and had to pay substantial markdowns, and sales fell to about $75 million.

In 1998, Maura deVisscher, chief executive officer of Emanuel, and Kim Perrone, president and chief operating officer, were ousted. Mary Wang succeeded them, but stayed only six months. After her departure, former GFT USA ceo Ron Frasch assumed responsibility for Emanuel, until the license was given up.

In spring 2000, deVisscher and Perrone returned to the business and set up a company, deV&P, which bought Adrienne Vittadini and acquired the license for the Emanuel/Emanuel Ungaro bridge line from the Salvatore Ferragamo company, which controls the Emanuel Ungaro brand and owned a minority stake in deV&P. In less than a year, deV&P closed and was liquidated.

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