BERLIN — In 2002, Germany’s perfumery retailers experienced the first "real loss" in 50 years, according to the German Perfumery Association.
Perfumery sales in 2002 declined 3.8 percent to $2.7 billion. All dollar figures are calculated from the euro at current exchange rates.
At its annual press conference in Frankfurt on Monday, the association pointed out that downturns in perfumery sales in the Seventies and more recently in 1994 could be viewed as "a market correction. But the year 2002 marked a real loss."
Unit sales were down only 0.5 percent, but severe price competition significantly trimmed overall sales. "Even intensive discount activities were not able to stimulate the consumer to spend the same or more money than last year in the perfumery," the association said. Furthermore, consumer traffic was down 10 percent.
By classification, sales of women’s perfumes were down 3.5 percent; skin care lost 2.1 percent, primarily in the middle- and low-priced segment; body care slipped 4.8 percent, and makeup, which had been a boom category in the last few years, decreased 5.1 percent. Men’s beauty products dropped 2.8 percent.
A total of 3,000 perfumeries were in operation in Germany in 2002, compared with 3,100 in 2001. For the first time in many years, it was noted, the number of employees did not grow, reflecting the attempts of pressured perfumery retailers to keep down costs. Personnel costs in German perfumeries represent about 25 percent of turnover.
The forecast for 2003 remains gloomy. In the association’s view, "perfumeries must prepare for a time without growth in the medium term."
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
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Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast