Akris: Albert Kriemler knows his customer, and she's not interested in looking plucked from the latest high-concept fashion spread. Whereas, last season, he took a misguided detour into trendy territory, here he stayed the sleek and chic course that he does best. The striking structures of Swiss architects Herzog & de Meuron, which the show notes said had inspired him, were reflected in interesting metallic looks, such as a puffy coat and shrug made from aluminum-treated georgette and silk georgette evening dresses, almost all cinched with sleek chrome belts. There was no shortage of the label's bread and butter — trim, tailored pieces done in a palette of steely grays and blacks. And silk rain jackets with doubled-up drawstring collars showed a nice sporty side to the collection. Aside from a few strange cubic knits, missteps were minimal and mainly a matter of styling — tulle turtlenecks pulled up to the nose and platform oxfords with heels hanging off the edge that came off as dated and certainly won't resonate with the Akris audience. But those double-faced cashmere coats, one in particular with a shiny patent collar, certainly will.

Andrew Gn: If you don't get Andrew Gn's type of ritzy glamour, you probably live on the wrong side of the tracks anyway. After all, his kind of girl has no qualms about ultra-luxurious embellishment, nor does she cringe at the price of his opulent fabrics (12-ply cashmere, anyone?). For fall, the designer expertly applied his talents by finding inspiration in the work of architects Josef Hoffman and Armand-Albert Rateau. Couture-quality embroideries and appliqué patterns with rich Art Deco overtones were the result. They adorned everything from a mink-collared coat to silk blouses and tiered evening gowns. The coats were knockouts, especially those with amethyst and lapis-lazuli passementerie at the waist and cuffs. But it was Gn's lighter touch, mixed with a fetching exotica, that made this outing one of his best, with tops of cascading organza petals, tiered gold minidresses and a cute velvet halter dress bringing a younger vibe to Gn's brand of rich chic.

Costume National: Designer Ennio Capasa has aligned his Costume National label with a certain hard-edged, dark glamour. For fall, he riffed on that theme, juxtaposing military details with masculine tailoring in a collection that, as a whole, never got off the ground. Coats were among the stronger pieces. They came with army-like utility belts, multiple zippers or high collars in a palette of army green and gray. Tailored trouser suits were fine, as well, including the flannel ensembles, and, as for the voluminous satin tunic — well, why not? But the satin dresses with folding details at the sleeve, or with multiple straps in bright colors, may be harder sells.Tao Comme des Garçons: Message number one at Tao Kurihara's fall runway: Pensez pink! Message two: Live the sporty life. Arcing through the collection, however, was the lesson of how to move from the quirkily conceptual to the commercially viable. Kurihara has delivered on the latter in the past, but that merch meter has always taken a backseat to her dreamy poetic reverie. Not so this season. She kept the froth to a relative minimum, using it as a feminine counterpoint to a more boyish story, one told in blacks, whites, grays and flashes of shocking pink. Thus, she layered foamy ruched jumpers and vests (if one can call them that) with a casual long-sleeved T-shirt or a prim button-down. Trousers came as eccentric track pants and shorts, in sailor or athletic stripes, and sports bras were fluffed up with ruffles. On her way to commercial city this season, Kurihara lost a little of her signature charm, and it was missed.

Issey Miyake: After training under Issey Miyake for years, Dai Fujiwara finally showed his first collection as creative director for the Japanese brand, and it demonstrated that he shares Miyake's penchant for innovative textiles and joyous colors. Fujiwara aimed to unify many of the house's diverse lines, from the APOC line of tubular cutout garments to the vibrant Fete collection. He accomplished that, pairing geometric patterned denim with the house's signature pleated tops, and working pleated taffeta into bouncy, 3-D dresses. Fujiwara's proclivity for fabric development was seen in his best pieces — slinky bright jersey ensembles and tapestry coats decorated with the signs of the zodiac.

Bless: German design duo Desirée Heiss and Ines Kaag's choice of venue — a helicopter launchpad atop a Montparnasse tower — could be interpreted as meaning that they're ready for takeoff, but their quirky Bless collection of voluminous quilted jackets and padded sweater vests paired with raw denim pants, mohair scarves and bubble coats reached new creative heights on its own.

Azzaro: Vanessa Seward added a nod to Seventies YSL and a dash of chinoiserie to Azzaro's ever-present glam quotient, in gowns and cocktail shakers all aglitter with crystals and with snake accents wrapped around the neck, but she mixed it up this time with some flirty day dresses.Jeremy Scott: Wacky jukebox dresses, sci-fi shoulders and vibrant fur coats splashed with records masquerading as polkadots may not strike a chord with most terrestrial dressers, but Jeremy Scott's witty knits, cool sweatshirt dresses and Fifties-inspired cocktail numbers with bowling-pin motifs made for a street-friendly dose of fashion fun.

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