Against the advice of marketing and branding experts, John Targon and Scott Studenberg chose Baja East for their label, which, two seasons in, proved to be an astute move. It’s a well-suited moniker that expresses their sartorial ideal of “loose luxury,” which has already been picked up by influential stores like Barneys New York; Ikram in Chicago; Maxfield in Los Angeles; A’Maree’s in Newport Beach, Calif.; The Webster in Miami, and Hirschleifers in Manhasset, N.Y.
“Baja East is the idea of West Coast relaxed cool mixed with aggressive, street, East Side,” says Studenberg. “We are based in New York but love traveling to L.A., Cabo, Tulum, Marrakesh, the Far East.”
The designers’ energy is contagious, and extends to their fine-tuned sales pitch, which is rooted in their pre-Baja career experience. Studenberg was Lanvin’s sales director of North and South America. Targon was Burberry’s director of wholesale for men’s wear and men’s accessories, and prior to that spent four years as Céline’s sales director of North America.
They expect first-year sales of $2.1 million. “We always had an obsession with fashion, which goes to the heart of it all,” Targon says. “We thought, OK, we gained all this knowledge from our jobs, what can we now do for ourselves? We always had that entrepreneurial spirit and thought, maybe it’s a good time to go out and do it on our own.”
Having spent much time talking to store executives as well as customers, they decided to focus on that idea of loose luxury. Nothing is fitted, necklines are low, shoulders dropped, and all is rendered in ultrafine, comfortable materials. The designs also often blur gender lines—or, as they put it, they’re “ambisex.”
For fall, they impressively developed their concept with silk ikat tunics and beach-ready cashmere sweaters, as well as a cool leopard pony hair print used for an anorak, a sleeveless tunic and drawstring pants.
Their fashion week presentation was as charming as the clothes, as the duo talked the audience through each piece with an earnest conviction.
“We thought it was important that we didn’t simply do a presentation with models just standing around, or a runway show where they just walked,” Studenberg recalls. “We wanted to talk about the fabrics that we use, because we think that’s also really important.”
Adds Targon, “Our background is in sales. This is how we got people excited about our product in the stores, and this is how we like to communicate our message.”
Last year, lightning struck twice for young French designer Julien Dossena.
First, he was appointed creative director of Paco Rabanne, swiftly turning out two critically acclaimed collections, which left observers upbeat about the ailing brand’s future.
Second, he brought to life his own refreshingly nonchalant brand, named Atto, which he presents off the official Paris calendar, casually, if not accurately, calling it “just clothes on the racks.”
Looking at Dossena’s history, it seems like every step he made was carefully calculated for rapid ascent.
A graduate of La Cambre in Brussels—which shaped Olivier Theyskens, Anthony Vaccarello and others—Dossena scooped the jury prize in Hyères in 2008 along with the festival’s 1.2.3. prize sponsored by Etam, which led to a stint at the French group’s clothing brand while he was still in school.
“Designing for the mass market was a great way to get a foot in the door,” says Dossena, 31.
Shortly after, Balenciaga hired him to work on its ready-to-wear collection under the house’s former creative director Nicolas Ghesquière. It was here that Dossena experienced firsthand how to translate the historic codes of a venerable fashion brand into a contemporary lingua franca spoken by today’s fashion faithful.
Ghesquière’s departure in November 2012 opened the door to new adventures.
“We were all kind of jobless when Nicolas left,” he says, “so I decided to launch my own.”
Atto, which he established with another Balenciaga alum, Lion Blau, as junior designer, is conceived as a must for the multitasking woman, with a certain taste for luxury but no time to change on her way from the office to the kids’ playground.
After scouting for a niche to fill, the duo quickly realized that fancy design was in abundance, but finding a “good-quality white shirt or gabardine skirt” proved a challenge. “I wanted to create garments that are easy and supernormal, but of very high quality. It’s maybe a bit ambitious, but I have always been a big admirer of A.P.C. I want Atto to be a luxury version of that,” he says.
The concept worked. In just its second season, Atto’s sales points rose to 23 doors globally, and Dossena was short-listed for LVMH’s Young Fashion Designer Prize.
Meanwhile, at Paco Rabanne, he has found a playground for visual experiments, showing his ease with mesh tops and houndstooth-patterned tailoring alike.
And on that front, there is more to come. “The Paco Rabanne girl has always been a little radical,” he says. “I want to build on that respectfully, but fast-forward to the 21st century.”
There'll be no rest for those headed to Europe for men's, as Paris just closed the gap with Milan. According to a provisional calendar released by the Chambre Syndicale, Paris Men's Week will now open a day earlier on January 16. See new highlights on the official lineup on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
BREAKING: Jonathan Saunders is leaving @DVF. The designer has resigned from his position as chief creative officer of Diane von Furstenberg, the company said in a statement on Friday. At the time of his hire, von Furstenberg said Saunders’ arrival symbolized and facilitated her stepping back from the day-to-day duties that occupy the work of a full-time creative director. The British designer joined DVF in May 2016 and was in charge of all product categories. #wwdnews
For @versace_official’s spring ad campaign, the brand emphasized the archival prints from the spring tribute collection dedicated to the late Gianni Versace. Closing out the show were five of Gianni’s favorite models: Cindy, Naomi, Carla, Helena, and Claudia. Bowing on December 18, the new campaign is yet another tribute to supermodel-dom as the images by Steven Meisel are fronted by @iamnaomicampbell, @cturlington, @gisele and more. #wwdfashion
Four-time Oscar-nominated actress Annette Bening has been waiting 20 years to play Gloria Graham in "Film Stars Don't Die in Liverpool," which will be released on December 29. The movie about Graham – a Hollywood star known for her controversial relationship with a younger Englishman named Peter Turner – is based off a memoir Turned wrote. "She felt vulnerable to him, because she loved him, she really did love him. And anyone that we really truly are in love with, we re vulnerable to in a very deep way," said Bening. Read our full interview with the modern icon of an actress on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @ninebagatelles; Styled by @cristinaehrlich)
The crisp white button down: a staple that can be dressed up or down and accessorized throughout the decades. Here, on a Art Basel-goer in 2017 on the left and on the iconic Audrey Hepburn in “Roman Holiday” in 1953 on the right. #tbt #wwdfashion (📷: Andrew Morales)
Known for her work with @victoriassecret, 25-year-old model @georgiafowler is raising her profile in Hollywood. Fowler stars in @vincecamuto’s holiday campaign, which launched in partnership with “Pitch Perfect 3.” “Almost every shoot with Vince Camuto, I’ve had to face a fear…It was definitely a challenge. I’m so grateful for it, though. I’ve always wanted to be a pop star, so that was the perfect chance,” Fowler said. Head to WWD.com to read about Fowler’s experience modeling, including at the #VSFashionShow, and her relationship with Nick Jonas. #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
EXCLUSIVE: Huda Kattan just became the first beauty influencer to land a major beauty deal. Kattan's business, @hudabeauty, has received a minority investment from private equity firm TSG Consumer Partners. The brand, which industry sources say is on track to do $200 million in retail sales for 2017, will receive support on product, retail and geographic expansion through the deal. Get all the details on the deal and read @_a_collins' interview with Kattan on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdbeauty #wwdnews
Peruvian model @juanaburga_official – who is known for walking the runways of @rodarte, @viviennewestwood and @torybuch – is making the move to the big screen with drama “Los Últimos.” The film premiered in Argentina in November and arrives in the U.S. and Europe in 2018. On making the switch from modeling to acting, Burga told WWD: “It’s a completely different thing – a lot of people think it’s similar or try to connect things, especially like getting used to the camera or being looked at all the time or playing these different characrers, but film is a completely different story.” #wwdeye (📷: @jgreenery)
London’s newly opened @designmuseum will look back on the life and work of Azzedine Alaïa in a show that the designer helped to curate before he died of heart failure last month. The retrospective, which Alaïa had worked on with Mark Wilson, chief curator of the @groningermuseum, will look at the impact of his work worldwide. The show, “Azzedine Alaïa: The Couturier,” will run from May 10 to October 7. Read more about the exhibit on WWD.com #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @zefashioninsider)