After the frenzy of London, a moment of calm. And it made for Giorgio Armani’s most beautifully controlled collection in years, pleasantly nonchalant by day and all-out dazzling by night.

While fall featured skintight steam, for spring, Armani went for fluidity and ease while managing to showcase a host of new jackets. Long, short, lean, loose ­— whatever a woman’s pleasure, it was there to be found.

The relaxed attitude came in a neutral palette dominated by navy and gray, and in the way the clothes were worn, the jackets paired with either full-cut breezy pants or a single skirt shape, cut long with inset pleats and a ruffled hem. This bore a dash of boho so that by switching the jacket for a T-shirt, a fashion girl could make it a warm-weather staple.

There was nothing casual about evening, when a lineup of pale nudes and pinks took one’s breath away. Armani kept these ultradelicate in diaphanous fabrics, often touched with crystals and seed pearls. A lattice-back bustier was worked in a subtle floral pattern; passementerie embroidery detailed a romantic Empire gown.

Still, some women find discretion a challenge. For them, he offered an allover silver spectacular with a plunging neckline, perfect for the siren who wants to show off her refined side.

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