Whether ladylike or tough, decorated or sleek, one thing’s for sure — these looks are made for cool girls everywhere.
Lela Rose: Lela Rose is a Southern belle who has built a business out of clothes that are sweet and ladylike, if a bit familiar. This collection was all of those things, demonstrated with plenty of pretty dresses. She served up scalloped hems, metallic polkadots and jeweled necklines with an appealing quirky quality, while a sporty motif — albeit a girly one — leveled the saccharine factor with taffeta jackets and anorak dresses.
Stephen Burrows: Stephen Burrows' clothes are known for their element of fun. And this season, the designer found his party in Spain, delivering plenty of flamenco flourish in cascading ruffles, dramatic flounces and exuberant tassel work. The colors were inspired by the country's cuisine, and Burrows even cleverly worked in the kaleidoscopic mosaics of Antoni Gaudí to chic effect.
Yeohlee: Yeohlee Teng's clothes are a visual feast of ever-evolving architectural shapes and inventive fabrics. For spring, her focus is on boldly cut winged blouses in silk organza, arch-shaped coats in glossed cotton and crescent boleros. These striking silhouettes may have landed in many major design exhibitions, but they don't necessarily play well on the streets. Yet this collection did have some cozier, effortless looks that hit the mark: the gracefully flared dress and skirt in linen and silk seersucker and the lovely frocks in powder gray silk chiffon with hand-cut diamantés.
Jeremy Laing: Ever the student of minimalism, Jeremy Laing wove a clever conceptualism into his spring collection with softly draped dresses — several with capelet or canopy overlays. Laing also indulged in some Nineties-era colorblocking, even gracing one frock with painter pal Karen Azoulay's festive firework print, which had the front row celebrating.
Julia Jentzsch: Spring marks the debut of Julia Jentzsch's eponymous line, but the former designer of the now-defunct Naum has not sworn off that clean, streamlined look. In fact, Jentzsch said this collection is simply "an evolution" of the old Naum. She still carries on with a sculptural touch, but the architectural shapes have now softly, and elegantly, deflated. Everything, whether tailored smokings or tank dresses, came long, languid and lean — and with beautifully restrained embellishments.
Issa Rae stopped by WWD's NYC headquarters to talk about season two of "Insecure," which premieres this Sunday on HBO. Click link in bio for all the details. #wwdeye (📷: @jgreenery; Styled by @mayteallende)
A Stella McCartney sketch of a custom dress made from protein-based silk in partnership with biotech lab Bolt Threads. The dress will be displayed at The Museum of Modern Art's upcoming design exhibition, "Items: Is Fashion Modern?"