Moschino Cheap & Chic: Creative director Rossella Jardini’s Moschino gang knows how to make kooky work. After all, they’ve been at it for 20 years. But instead of celebrating the big anniversary with pomp, any hint of seriousness was banished from the Cheap & Chic runway. Out with the stuffy stuff of fashion, in with the feisty and fun loving, has always been the company motto.

For spring, the team took a proper-meets-over-the-rainbow-pop approach, showing caftans blooming with Celia Birtwell-esque prints over glittering bikinis; sundresses cut in cartoony brights and decorated with plastic baubles, as well as a white trenchcoat splattered with a smattering of cherry red hearts. It was all beyond giddy and girlish, with the prize for sobriety going to a flapper dress sparkling with swishing beaded fringe. The thing about Cheap & Chic’s special take on tweaked chic, however, is that it’s not only fun, it’s wearable. And its fans will find plenty to love about these clothes.

In fact, the team only took a rare misstep with the show closer: a model who loped down the length of the runway to the tune of Popeye’s theme in a red scalloped-collared top and black skirt à la Olive Oyl. It was a bit like suffering through a rendition of the birthday song delivered via a singing telegram. Still, isn’t it good to know that someone takes their fun so seriously?



DSquared: With the promise of something fresh, the Caten twins, Dean and Dan, lured the fashion pack to the outskirts of Milan for their DSquared show on Tuesday night. And their collection sure was fresh, sugar. Loitering in front of Dean & Dan’s Hot Digiddy Dog Diner, a neon-lit facade constructed at the end of the runway, a gang of brooding tough guys waited for the scantily clad girls they lust after.

Nevertheless, with all the buzz about whether the brothers will step in to fill the Celine post, they could have taken the opportunity to prove that they have what it takes to do a serious adult collection. They didn’t. They stuck to their own circle of chicks, a frisky lot, who are brasher than a pack of bodacious babes set loose from a Russ Meyer flick.Out came the Killer Kittens, as their T-shirts read, over-caffeinated, on the prowl and wearing tiny leather motorcycle jackets and not much else. The Catens have studied at Milan’s less-is-more school of fashion. They like their miniskirts cut scandalously, cheek-peekingly short and their bustiers packed full-to-bursting.

But for the world beyond the borders of the Catens’ fantasyland — you know, reality — there were a few items for the sex-kitten-in-training: a studded leather motorcycle jacket with pink leather frills bustling underneath a double-decker peplum, cropped wool jackets and skirts trimmed with leather binding and the brothers’ mean jeans. And boy, do they know how to cut those jeans, proving that they can serve up what young customers crave. While their show was an ode to “women who don’t take no for an answer,” as the invitation explained, the Catens surely realize that retailers say no all the time.

For the most part, the collection they sent down the runway, an hour and 21 minutes late, was an appealing enough romp. But whether their kittens are sophisticated enough to impress the top cats at LVMH is another story.



Anna Molinari: Retro romance and chiffon are bread and butter chez Anna Molinari, and this spring, Rosella Tarabini demonstrated why. She doesn’t take flitting about lightly and neither does her girlish customer. After all, they’re experts, and well versed in all manner of things fluttering, floating and flirty. For the devoted, she sent out more short, dreamy white and pale pink baby-doll dresses than would be needed to clothe a whole host of angels. And though it might take someone with a PhD in Molinari Studies to tell them all apart, each in the fleet was delicately detailed. One came layered with lace, another scalloped at the hem, yet another flecked with rhinestones or embroidered in a floral motif. Within the infinite variety was a prairie version with brodierie anglaise, and a granola-girl version jangling with tiny seashells.

To complement their overall boho boudoir effect, Tarabini worked in some antique-looking camisoles and satin tap pants. But those were just a diversion. Before long, she made her way back to flippy dresses again, closing with some of her best — sheer, silvered with sequins and guaranteed to please.

Strenesse Gabriele Strehle: Making a masculine-feminine statement that read loud and clear from the first row to the last, Gabriele Strehle’s spring collection was a 50-50 affair. First came a flouncy pink-and-white, floral sundress cut loose to hippie-princess proportions. Then a pinstriped pantsuit appeared, somber but boasting a slouchy swagger. Back and forth, pink and peachy feminine frills followed grayish masculine looks and vice versa like a skipping record, unless the two moods were conjoined, as was the case when a petal-pink Tinkerbell top was paired with dour tailored shorts.

But while Strehle’s message was none too subtle, her clothes were wearable no matter which gender they took their cues from. Unabashedly boho dresses, many laced up the back or layered, flowed like mead at a Renaissance fair. Strehle’s suits made a case, not for business casual, but business cool. What the two themes meant shown together — well, who knows? But if you can only please some of the people some of the time, then at least Strehle upped her odds.

To access this article, click here to subscribe or to log in.

To Read the Full Article
SUBSCRIBE NOW

Tap into our Global Network

Of Industry Leaders and Designers

load comments
blog comments powered by Disqus