All you girly girls, get ready. The spring runways were full of ultrafeminine looks -- many were proper, while others were pouffed up and punked out.
Libertine: "We don't need to show every season," said Libertine's Johnson Hartig after Friday's show, the first after a two-season absence. "Our things don't change that much. But there was kind of a big evolution this time, I think." He thinks correctly. Hartig and design partner Cindy Greene shifted away from their usual dark-days-at-an-English-countryside-public-school look to create a much girlier collection, populated with scads of punked-up party dresses that came full-skirted and floral. They added sponsor Swarovski's crystals to their usual tweaking technique of silk-screening, which they showed in subtle, sparkly cobwebs over dresses or as fully realized images of skulls and roses. Still present, however, was their undying Anglophilia in felted cameos of Queen Victoria that dotted dresses and coats and in silk-screened prints of Keats and poet Rupert Brooke. The designers moved on from their characteristic Olde English font to bold block-letter prints for the phrase, "Drink Old England Dry," reminiscent of Katharine Hamnett's slogan Ts from the Eighties. More basic fare of hoodies and trenches, some painted by Damien Hirst in a charity collaboration, rounded out the offerings. However, with the club-kid presentation of campy updos and cross-generational sister acts out of sync with their usual chic positioning (and hefty price tag), their message rang a bit unclear.
Still, Libertine's ascent has been quite the phenomenon. With fans and friends in the loftiest echelons of art and fashion, they're continuing to mine a medium — reworked vintage clothes — that has challenged others after the initial excitement wears off. Certainly that arena offers limited growth, which is why Hartig and Greene are introducing a line of shirts, their first foray into mass production. Their future should be an interesting one to watch.
Michon Schur: Connections are all well and good, but talent is what keeps people interested in a young designer. Stephanie Schur has both in spades. While her husband, Jordan Schur, president of Geffen Records, might have plenty of strings to pull, it was the charm of her first small Michon Schur collection — Michon is her middle name — three seasons ago that opened up fashion doors with stylists like Christina Ehrlich, who subsequently pulled looks for client Penélope Cruz. At Schur's first presentation Friday, Kirsten Dunst spent considerable time studying the 20-piece tableau vivant. Inspired by the Twenties, the designer said she wanted to focus on the details. So she trimmed pale, loose-waisted silk dresses, vintage-looking blouses and a pretty steel satin tunic with gauzy black lace, a small touch that reaped chic results. Rich silks and laces from Europe — while there, she signed on with the same manufacturer as Chanel and Rochas — dressed up the line, but not so much that one couldn't just throw on the great droopy trench every morning and head out the door.Heatherette: It's not just for "Look at me!" girls and drag queens anymore! Amid the raucous party scene Friday night, Richie Rich and Traver Rains proved their six-year-old label, Heatherette, is indeed — for everyone. Beneath the over-the-top hair and accessories, the clothes weren't only wearable, but fun. Who wouldn't want to sport a black-and-white polkadot piqué coat with sleek Bermuda shorts come spring? Or a pretty floral chiffon dress with a dainty embellished cardigan in candy colors? There were even samplings of peg-leg pants and capris from the jeans line and some cutesy gingham swimwear to round out any girl's wardrobe. So with the sense of humor we've come to expect, the long, hot week of shows was given an all-around welcome reprieve.
VPL by Victoria Bartlett: You can always count on Victoria Bartlett to present her quirky undergarments in an interesting way, and this season was no different. The presentation was held at the Audi showroom on Park Avenue, where some VPL models stood around a rotating red Audi sedan, drinking canned beer and playing a silly don't-take-your-hand-off-the-car game. As this action ensued, other models walked around dressed in oversized hoodie sweatshirts, big white cotton shorts, camis and sock boots. While there were some great looks — a boxer-style hooded robe, an oversized tank with a train to the floor and a great silk bolero in beige — nothing in the spring lineup seemed new.
Boudicca: Even the most hard-core Goth can have a sweet side, and British design duo Brian Kirkby and Zowie Broach showed theirs to beautiful effect. For their second New York showing, Kirkby and Broach favored a mostly black lineup of sharply tailored and aggressively detailed pieces that nonetheless had a softer side, such as a swingy pleated skirt; an Empire-sashed top layered over a peak-sleeved yellow silk blouse, and an arc-seamed shirtdress. From there, the duo went really girly, in fabric if not in cut: Baby blue eyelet was chevroned into a puff-sleeve blouse topping a high-waisted, floral-print skirt, and red silk was pleated and pouffed into a party frock for the boldest of girls. Those who might have been put off by the macabre antics of past collections will likely prefer the paler colors and cheeky florals the designers incorporated this time around.
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews
“Stranger Things” is getting a new cast member for season 2. Meet @sadiesink_, the 15-year-old who will be joining the Netflix series for its new season. You may recognize her from “The Glass Castle” with Brie Larson and Woody Harrelson, but the Texas native’s next role goes in an entirely different direction. She describes her character, Max, as “a rough and tumble skater girl [who] becomes friends with the boys at school.” The second season debuts on October 27. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdeye
Amid the Harvey Weinstein controversy, there’s another sector that’s being put under the spotlight for sexual abuse: the modeling industry. While rumors about abuse and sexual harassment of female and male models — and the photographers, agents and others who perpetrated it — have circulated within the fashion world for years, model @cameronrussell started posting stories from models on Instagram last week about abusive situations they’ve encountered — from sexual harassment and molestation to attempted rape. Over 75 have weighed in so far. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews
To celebrate its 16th anniversary, @dylanscandybar tapped designers and celebrities to create mosaics out of candy. The mosaics will be auctioned off to support the philanthropic cause of each participant’s choice. Pictured here is the mural created by @aliceandolivia's Stacey Bendet. For a first look at some of the other artwork being unveiled tonight, go to WWD.com. #wwdeye
The annual Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic in Pacific Palisades this weekend drew Kate Hudson, Tracee Ellis Ross, Laura Dern and more. See pictures of the star-studded event on WWD.com. (📷: @chelsealaurenla) #wwdeye
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye