All you girly girls, get ready. The spring runways were full of ultrafeminine looks -- many were proper, while others were pouffed up and punked out.

Libertine: "We don't need to show every season," said Libertine's Johnson Hartig after Friday's show, the first after a two-season absence. "Our things don't change that much. But there was kind of a big evolution this time, I think." He thinks correctly. Hartig and design partner Cindy Greene shifted away from their usual dark-days-at-an-English-countryside-public-school look to create a much girlier collection, populated with scads of punked-up party dresses that came full-skirted and floral. They added sponsor Swarovski's crystals to their usual tweaking technique of silk-screening, which they showed in subtle, sparkly cobwebs over dresses or as fully realized images of skulls and roses. Still present, however, was their undying Anglophilia in felted cameos of Queen Victoria that dotted dresses and coats and in silk-screened prints of Keats and poet Rupert Brooke. The designers moved on from their characteristic Olde English font to bold block-letter prints for the phrase, "Drink Old England Dry," reminiscent of Katharine Hamnett's slogan Ts from the Eighties. More basic fare of hoodies and trenches, some painted by Damien Hirst in a charity collaboration, rounded out the offerings. However, with the club-kid presentation of campy updos and cross-generational sister acts out of sync with their usual chic positioning (and hefty price tag), their message rang a bit unclear.

Still, Libertine's ascent has been quite the phenomenon. With fans and friends in the loftiest echelons of art and fashion, they're continuing to mine a medium — reworked vintage clothes — that has challenged others after the initial excitement wears off. Certainly that arena offers limited growth, which is why Hartig and Greene are introducing a line of shirts, their first foray into mass production. Their future should be an interesting one to watch.

Michon Schur: Connections are all well and good, but talent is what keeps people interested in a young designer. Stephanie Schur has both in spades. While her husband, Jordan Schur, president of Geffen Records, might have plenty of strings to pull, it was the charm of her first small Michon Schur collection — Michon is her middle name — three seasons ago that opened up fashion doors with stylists like Christina Ehrlich, who subsequently pulled looks for client Penélope Cruz. At Schur's first presentation Friday, Kirsten Dunst spent considerable time studying the 20-piece tableau vivant. Inspired by the Twenties, the designer said she wanted to focus on the details. So she trimmed pale, loose-waisted silk dresses, vintage-looking blouses and a pretty steel satin tunic with gauzy black lace, a small touch that reaped chic results. Rich silks and laces from Europe — while there, she signed on with the same manufacturer as Chanel and Rochas — dressed up the line, but not so much that one couldn't just throw on the great droopy trench every morning and head out the door.Heatherette: It's not just for "Look at me!" girls and drag queens anymore! Amid the raucous party scene Friday night, Richie Rich and Traver Rains proved their six-year-old label, Heatherette, is indeed — for everyone. Beneath the over-the-top hair and accessories, the clothes weren't only wearable, but fun. Who wouldn't want to sport a black-and-white polkadot piqué coat with sleek Bermuda shorts come spring? Or a pretty floral chiffon dress with a dainty embellished cardigan in candy colors? There were even samplings of peg-leg pants and capris from the jeans line and some cutesy gingham swimwear to round out any girl's wardrobe. So with the sense of humor we've come to expect, the long, hot week of shows was given an all-around welcome reprieve.

VPL by Victoria Bartlett: You can always count on Victoria Bartlett to present her quirky undergarments in an interesting way, and this season was no different. The presentation was held at the Audi showroom on Park Avenue, where some VPL models stood around a rotating red Audi sedan, drinking canned beer and playing a silly don't-take-your-hand-off-the-car game. As this action ensued, other models walked around dressed in oversized hoodie sweatshirts, big white cotton shorts, camis and sock boots. While there were some great looks — a boxer-style hooded robe, an oversized tank with a train to the floor and a great silk bolero in beige — nothing in the spring lineup seemed new.

Boudicca: Even the most hard-core Goth can have a sweet side, and British design duo Brian Kirkby and Zowie Broach showed theirs to beautiful effect. For their second New York showing, Kirkby and Broach favored a mostly black lineup of sharply tailored and aggressively detailed pieces that nonetheless had a softer side, such as a swingy pleated skirt; an Empire-sashed top layered over a peak-sleeved yellow silk blouse, and an arc-seamed shirtdress. From there, the duo went really girly, in fabric if not in cut: Baby blue eyelet was chevroned into a puff-sleeve blouse topping a high-waisted, floral-print skirt, and red silk was pleated and pouffed into a party frock for the boldest of girls. Those who might have been put off by the macabre antics of past collections will likely prefer the paler colors and cheeky florals the designers incorporated this time around.

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