There were fun, feminine looks at Moschino, tailored leathers at Bally and haute bohemian styles at Trussardi, while Borbonese was all about gold.
Moschino and Cheap & Chic: If laughter is the best medicine, then the house of Moschino has to be the best clinic in town. Never short of a joke, this company has always been a purveyor of fun fashion, infused with just the right amount of kitsch. In the past, the house has sent out everything from Spanish senoritas in newspaper flamenco dresses to the Wizard of Oz and pirate gear. But for spring, the joke was in the unexpected. There were no giant hats, no elf shoes, no camp. Instead, the presentation demonstrated the house’s unique — strange and twisted — sense of humor. The show opened with the models walking backward and closed with a finale of girls falling on top of each other, domino-style. Weird, yes — but that’s showbiz chez Moschino.
The real gems were sandwiched in between: a terrific lineup of soft, sexy looks, perfect for girly-girl dressing. Cute, swirly candy-colored prints showed up in breezy chiffon dresses, silk slips and Fifties camp shirts. When these were topped with adorable jackets and skirts in a "baby" print, the cuteness quotient went up a notch. But if sweet doesn’t tickle your fancy, there’s always the rebel. And Moschino’s rebellious girl wore black, black and more black, often adorned with junkyard jewels, which were good finds. There was the requisite party dress — short, snappy and tiered with zippers — as well as loose blousons, pointelle knits and pleated skirts.
The cute factor also took over at Cheap & Chic. The models hit the floral-printed runway, decked out in flirty pieces with their hair done up in ringlets and colored ribbons. A patchwork of printed silks was crafted into little dresses with smocked waistbands, while poufy tiers put the bounce into short cotton skirts, and tissue-thin silk blouses with trumpet sleeves were paired with striped bootleg pants. Served up in a tempting palette of delicate sherbet tones, the collection was a delightful relief from the brash sex message that’s sweeping Milan.
Bally: Leather has taken a back seat on the Milanese runways this season, but Scott Fellows knew better than to go along with that idea. He does, after all, design for a high-end leather goods firm. So he worked with an array of skins, from napa and suede to crocodile and python, which he fashioned into dapper, structured jackets, mini-bombers and belted coats. To balance the razor-sharp tailoring, Fellows paired his leather pieces with silk chiffon peasant blouses or Grecian-style tops over flared skirts and skinny pants, all in rich jewel tones.
Trussardi: Pick a theme and run with it — that’s the motto for Francesco and Beatrice Trussardi, the brother-and-sister design team behind this label. And this season it isn’t the sexy divas or fairy-tale pixies that are romping all over town, but chic hippies. Right down to the last embroidered platform slide, the Trussardis didn’t budge from their vision of flower power chicks venturing into Native American territory. Suede, always embroidered or beaded in cheerful sunny shades, took center stage as it shaped up in the form of knee-length tunic dresses, low slung bell bottoms, tank tops, shorts and a plethora of slouchy shoulder bags or structured styles. Beyond suede, there were loosely crocheted sweaters, cotton drill bottoms, often paired with abstract floral tops. Woodstock lives.
Borbonese: All that glitters is gold — even if it’s leather or silk. Alessandro Dell’Acqua, the creative director at this accessories house, brought the Midas touch to his runway with enough gold reptile skins — in zip-front vests, trench coats and tapered pants —to satisfy the gold-diggers of the world. But Dell’Acqua didn’t stop there. He mined some slinky satins with a metallic sheen for camisoles knotted at the back, itty-bitty minis and draped dresses. And why not go for the gold accessories too with fringed leather shoulders bags and high-heeled strappy sandals.
It was all tempered by suede, printed with the company’s signature bird’s-eye print, which cropped up in everything from skimpy bikinis to roomy trench coats, and by a group of black leather biker jackets and zipped minis. But Dell’Acqua’s real message was: Go with the glow.
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)
@heriethpaul and @gracebol have a moment on the @victoriassecret fashion show 2017. See every look from the runway on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo) #wwdfashion #victoriassecret #VSFashionShow
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia