Yes, he’s talented. But a guy can only run on the ticket of talent-soon-to-be-realized for so long. In the Givenchy collection he showed on Thursday night, Riccardo Tisci did nothing to speed his flowering as a true couturier. Rather, he again let deep-thoughts pretension detract woefully from what was good about his clothes.
Tisci sees the world darkly, and certainly fashion always needs what might be considered alternative, aggressive visions. That said, the six-figure world of couture, whose constituents shell out for two reasons — to feel good and look pretty — is probably not the perfect pulpit. Even if it were, to date Tisci has seemed more focused on his story line than his fashion message; at this point, does anyone know what Givenchy stands for?
The show was something of a cross-cultural trek, filled with tribal references from various locales — Africa, India, Burma — although exactly what a snappy coat in panels of deep-toned cashmere and leather has to do with Bosnia was not readily apparent. What was evident is that Tisci is an accomplished tailor with a fine knack for both cut and unfussy decoration. If he would bother to translate those into a clear point of view before trying to be the Dark Side’s Busby Berkeley, both his house and his audience would be the beneficiaries.
Supermodel @helenachristensen teamed up with longtime friend and designer @camillastaerk on a joint @paredeyewear collaboration. The lineup features three styles and 11 offerings, all of which embody a vintage feel. Get all the details on how they celebrated the collab on WWD.com. #wwdaccessories #wwdeye (📷: @slovekinpics)
“It’s a hard industry to keep motivated, as well, so finding different subjects and people is what makes it worth it – when you’re like, oh, I’ve met great people, I feel like I’ve done something good, and I feel proud of having done this,” said French actress Stacy Martin on being grateful for the variety of roles she’s take on. Read @ktauer’s full interview with Martin on her her latest film “Godard Mon Amour.” #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
After showing in front of the Eiffel Tower for his last two women’s ready-to-wear collection, it looks like @anthonyvaccarello may be heading to the Big Apple. Sources say the designer will stage his next @ysl show in NYC on June 6. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
EXCLUSIVE: Two and half months after John Targon, cofounder and codesigner of Baja East, was hired as creative director of the contemporary division at Marc Jacobs, he has left the company, WWD has learned. Marc Jacobs International, which is owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, confirmed Targon’s departure in a statement: “John Targon is a talented designer and we appreciate the work he has done here. Ultimately working together did not make sense for the brand and we wish him the best.” Read the story by @jessiredale, link in bio. #wwdnews
@theluxurycollection is officially launching a collection, tapping Sofia Sanchez de Betak for the capsule. Over 30 styles will be featured in the Chufy x The Luxury Collection, debuting next month at Bergdorf Goodman, The Webster, FiveStory and more. De Betak, known as “@chufy,” drew inspiration for the collection from her trips to Japan in the past year #wwdfashion
@lhd, founder and CEO of @thewebster, has teamed up with @lebonmarcherivegauche for the European launch of her ready-to-wear line, LHD. The launch will come with an exclusive pop-up opening today that’s set to run through May 20. Located on the second floor, it carries her debut Miami-themed resort collection, launched in November as see-now-buy-now. #wwdfashion