By and  on June 26, 2006

PARIS — Parfums Givenchy combined naughty with nice for its latest fragrance for women, dubbed Ange Ou Démon, Angel or Démon in English.

Taking its cue from the LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton fashion brand's focus under creative director Riccardo Tisci, Ange Ou Demon hinges on the concept of duality.

"It's about revealing the darker side of women," said Alain Lorenzo, Parfums Givenchy's president and chief executive officer.

The scent is also intended to embody Givenchy's heritage and re-create the art de vivre personified by its founder, Hubert de Givenchy.

"Ange Ou Démon is to translate Givenchy's strong identity, its uniqueness, with its roots in French aristocracy," said Isabelle Gex, vice president of global marketing at Parfums Givenchy. She maintained that the use of crystal chandeliers in ad visuals is symbolic of aristocratic French style.

Advertising, shot by New York photographers Inez & Vinoodh, plays on the scent's dual personality with an aristocratic edge. The advertising campaign features 20-year-old Marie Steiss, the daughter of France's patrician prime minister, Dominique de Villepin. De Villepin's daughter is using the surname Steiss to develop her career as a model and an actress, according to a Givenchy spokeswoman. WWD first reported on Feb. 3 that Steiss would be the face of the scent.

"[Steiss] was appropriate for this dual identity," said Gex, adding it's the model's first major contract. "She has very soft blonde hair with blue eyes, and yet a toughness in her eyes and strength in her face itself."

The campaign comprises two visuals, which will run on consecutive pages and as gatefold spreads. The first image features Steiss gazing angelically through an array of crystals; in the second she wears a sultry, provocative expression. The scent's bottle, designed by Serge Mansau, is shaped like a pointed crystal and is a contrast of clear-colored glass and black lacquer. Crystal shapes are etched on the back of the bottle to give the impression that crystals are dangling in the scent's juice.

The outer packaging is white with a black logo.

"When Riccardo joined the company, I spent many hours talking with him [about] the vision of the brand, how to be consistent with the fashion side," said Gex, adding that Ange Ou Démon's development began while Tisci was creating his first haute couture collection for the firm. "[He] spent many hours and many months looking at the first collection by Hubert de Givenchy, which was very black and white," she said, explaining the inspiration behind the fragrance's color codes.Executives believe the new fragrance will appeal to an older audience than the one attracted to its successful 2003 scent, Very Irresistible Givenchy, which is fronted by Liv Tyler.

"Perhaps it is a less young consumer than for Very Irresistible, [because] Liv Tyler is very appealing to young people," said Lorenzo. "It's not for a first-time consumer; it's for the woman who knows what she likes," added Gex.

Givenchy executives declined to comment on sales forecasts; however, industry sources estimate Ange Ou Démon could generate up to 80 million euros, or $100 million at current exchange, in first-year retail sales.

The scent's oriental floral juice was concocted by Firmenich's Olivier Cresp and Jean-Pierre Bethouart. Top notes include white thyme, mandarin and saffron. At its heart are notes of orchid, lily and ylang-ylang, and its base features tonka bean, vanilla, rosewood and oak wood absolute.

The eau de parfum will be available in 50- and 100-ml. sprays, priced in France at 65 euros, or $82, and 95 euros, or $120, respectively.

An ancillary collection comprises a 200-ml. jar of body cream for 59 euros, or $74; a 200-ml. bottle of body mist for 34 euros, or $43; a 200-ml. bottle of shower gel for 27 euros, or $34, and a 100-ml. bottle of deodorant spray for 26 euros, or $33. The scent's sampling campaign will include 10-ml. vials, 4-ml. miniatures and scent strips.

Ange Ou Démon will bow in France, the U.S., Italy, Mexico, the U.K., Russia and Kuwait in September, and the rest of the world will get the scent in September 2007.

The house will also launch Amarige Mariage, in the brand's venerable Amarige franchise, in August in the U.S. It will be carried in about 1,100 department and specialty store doors here, including Macy's, Sephora, Dillards and sephora.com.

Amarige Mariage — the latter name an anagram of Amarige — is a Chypre Oriental concocted by Symrise, said Linda Maiocco, vice president of marketing in the U.S. for Guerlain and Parfums Givenchy. Top notes are of Sicilian bitter orange and Calabrian bergamot; the heart is of magnolia and Egyptian jasmine, and the drydown is of patchouli, Siam benzoin and sandalwood. The bottle is intended to resemble a feminine shape, and the silver-hued neck is intended to evoke a wedding ring.Eaux de parfum in two sizes, 50 ml. for $62 and 100 ml. for $82, will be offered, as will two ancillaries: a $40, 6.7-oz. body veil and a $35, 6.7-oz. shower gel.

The brand is playing up the wedding theme with a daring gown designed by Riccardo Tisci, Givenchy's couture designer, especially for the fragrance. The dress is featured in the brand's advertising, said Maiocco. "But this isn't a typical bridal ad," she said. "It's a spirited visual which just happens to feature a $40,000 couture gown." The campaign was shot by Sofia Sanchez and Mauro Mongiello.

National advertising in beauty and bridal magazines, including Bride's and In Style Weddings, is slated to begin in September issues; about 75 percent of the ads will feature scented strips. An in-store sampling campaign is intended to deliver at least 25 million scented impressions, Maiocco said. She wouldn't comment on projected sales or advertising spending, but industry sources estimated that Mariage could do $10 million at retail in its first year on counter in the U.S., and estimated the advertising and promotional budget at $2 million.

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