Elie Saab: After a few years of showing on the couture circuit, Elie Saab has proved he is a man of singular vision. He likes sexy, embroidered gowns. Period. Sequins — the more the better. Flounces, fringes and everything that glimmers — give him more. The Beirut designer, whose confections have lit up the red carpet on the backs of Halle Berry and Beyoncé, isn't a minimalist. But one is hard-pressed to fault the designer for knowing his zone and steadfastly staying there. It's helped his business flourish (he just opened his first store in Paris).

This season, Saab offered a smorgasbord of sequined chiffon gowns. Flirty and short or long and columnar, some came with silver fringes, others were paired with satin opera coats and almost all were decorated with his ubiquitous bling. The nicest numbers were draped with ruffles, including a black floor-sweeping flamenco look — which seemed oddly out of place among the rest of his none-too-subtle parade. That said, by sticking to a palette of mostly gray and black, Saab exhibited his own variety of control.

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