Chloé: Without pyrotechnics or fanfare, Phoebe Philo knows how to ignite a collection — clothes! Her Chloé customer is a good-time girl with a packed social calendar, expensive tastes and an easygoing attitude, not at all unlike Philo herself. And not unlike her style-savvy peers, whether they hail from London or elsewhere. They’re into dressing in a way that is sexy, but not trampy, and clothes that are distinctive, but not eccentric. No wonder Philo is becoming their go-to girl. In Los Angeles, she’s quietly gaining a market share among slim, tan starlets, and in New York, select members of the swan set, including local trendsetter Karen Groos, have begun working the label.

For spring, Philo sent out crisp lace shirts, chic denim skirts and slinky smocked dresses in an ode to the sporty, preppy sensibility that came into vogue when she was still a kid. But it’s easy to imagine Groos and her crew wearing the same. For après-beach, Philo served up a white gauze shirt streaked with indigo over a pair of white jeans, elegantly double-braided at the waist. A grass-green sundress swung from its bandeau top, while a little black dress, banded with smocking and tied around the neck with beaded cords, is an obvious must-have. Meanwhile, Philo was clever to revisit the popular pompons and webby macramé of last spring’s collection. Sometimes you just can’t get enough of a good thing.

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