Fashion Week revved up with the sweet and spiffy, the understated and the daring, as sleek looks contrasted with feminine shapes.
Kenneth Cole: Does Kenneth Cole feel just a little bit guilty about having amassed wealth through fashion? His current tag line has the ring of internal struggle: "To be aware is more important than what you wear." Similarly, this season's show-opening public awareness spot, titled "FVU," an amusing riff on "Law & Order: SVU," stars Whoopie Goldberg as the unapologetic perp who tells two cops that fashion doesn't matter a hoot in a world devastated by AIDS, homelessness and Katrina. But the detectives still throw the book at her (the book being the mammoth September issue of Vogue), since, "being socially aware is no excuse for bad fashion."
There was not an FV atrocity in sight on Cole's runway (at least not on the feminine side; thankfully, this publication need not address HotPants pour homme). Instead, the designer sent out a lineup of appealing sportswear that bore a certain savvy understatement. He worked in muted, often earthy colors — browns, navies, greens of the olive and moss ilk — while emphasizing tailoring that looked soft but still spiffy. Some strong looks played with boy-meets-girl, a generously ruffled wrap shirt with Bermudas, for example. When he countered the overt sportif, it was with all-girl dresses in vibrant crinkled chiffons. Still, Cole's own look might turn out to be the season's best — and most profitable. He took his bow in a Red Cross T-shirt with the number "1 (800) HELP NOW" on the back.
Nicole Miller: In New York, there's no bigger Celtics fan than Nicole Miller. After fall's romp with the Valkyries, for spring she refocused her attention on her first love — Celtic knots and symbols in a rainbow of jewel tones. That motif made for a few appealing pieces. But too often, Miller muddied the waters with a second strong concept — glam bohemia. It resulted in a battery of metallic crochets, architectural panels and some seriously unforgiving silhouettes. Girls might find all those balloon shapes a tad difficult to pull off — even on their skinny days.Miller's best moments were when she boiled her ideas down to their square roots: lean white crochet dresses; a sweet cream Empire-waisted linen coat. And rather than tricky cuts and seams she should play to her strength, color. Miller's unafraid to use it with Pucci-like boldness — which she exercised on the oversized Celtic prints — or find fresh ways to pair it, as seen in copper trims on a mint skirt and a cerulean dress.
Gottex: A sexy Caribbean breeze swept through the tents Friday afternoon as Gottex's Gideon Oberson, inspired by the exotic isles, sent out his latest swimwear collection to a group that included celebrity guests as off-kilter as Dr. Ruth Westheimer and pop music's latest heir apparent, Ryan Cabrera, who both sat in the front row.
Oberson focused heavily on overlays and daring cuts. In his playful tropical print group, there were lots of ruffles and pretty chiffon après-beachwear, including slit-front skirts and shawls. And the twist played a key role in many of the 63 styles he sent out, most notably a lime one-piece with multiple twisted bandeaux on its front side. It was one of his seemingly simple maillot styles, though, that really wowed the crowd when the model turned around to reveal a beaded spiderweb across the back. But nothing upstaged the last look: a bikini festooned with more than 5,000 hand-carved, 18-karat gold mini banana leaves that swished as the model breezed by.
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews