Lagerfeld Gallery: With Lagerfeld Gallery, Karl Lagerfeld frees himself from the ebb and flow of fickle trends, showing more personal clothes instead. So it’s no wonder that, over the years, the collection has taken on a familiar Lagerfeldian feel. It’s feminine, but not overtly. It’s a little stark, but hardly bleak. And it converts sex appeal into wearable clothes. His spring collection was no exception. As in his previous forays, Lagerfeld played with classic white shirts and sleek suits, pairing retooled tuxedo jackets with charming miniskirts, while also providing smart cocktail dresses and high-glam swimwear Helmut Newton would love. Merging a hard, graphic sensibility with the charm of tennis whites, his best looks included a white minidress in sharp pleats, as well as a white leather miniskirt cut with zigzag hem. A white minidress dotted in black came with dancing tassled bows on the shoulder. Of course, now that he’s model-slim himself, Lagerfeld also seems to have taken on yet another role. The health department has their surgeon general, and fashion has Karl, who issued a stern warning on the runway. A cotton tank top, shown paired with a tiny silver bikini bottom, delivered his dictum: 4 Slim People.

Celine: Is Michael Kors dreaming about vacations to come? He’s still got another season to go at Celine, where he has served as creative director since 1997, but it looks like his exit plan involves an expanse of white sand and maybe a piña colada or two. His spring Celine collection was nowhere near the big-time smash he showed for his house in New York, but it was full of clothes that beachified rich girls couldn’t help but understand.Printed with birds-of-paradise, orchids and abstract palm fronds, sunny halter dresses would look just right in Palm Beach or Portofino. A hot pink sweatshirt topped a palm-printed bikini bottom, and a pink halter top with long wrapping ties was shown with a slim skirt splashed with lurid orchids. You know, the girl from Ipanema, etc.Meanwhile, jackets, bikinis and skinny pants printed with meandering gold chains like classic silk scarves were so Capri they were almost camp. Kors followed the sun on this one, delivering a colorful, but uninspired, collection for the house. Perhaps all the buzz about who might succeed him has distracted Kors. But hang in there, Michael, you’ve got one more to go.Costume National: Ennio Capasa is a clever fellow, and he found a way to acknowledge this season’s feminine, girlish fashion direction, without abandoning his rock ’n’ roll roots. The collection he showed on Wednesday was pretty and romantic, one of his strongest in years. Capasa said butterfly wings were the starting point for spring, translated into dusty colors, fluttering fabrics and rounded shapes. Even his tough-as-nails leather pants ended in asymmetric, scalloped hems, softening up the look just a touch. The designer, who has shown all-black collections in the past, didn’t let go of his signature shade, but color ruled the day, from apple green and lavender to mauve and lemon.What kept this butterfly from becoming too cute or cloying was sex appeal, which the Costume National girl expects. And Capasa gravitates to it like, well, a moth to a flame. Raised seams outlined womanly curves on snug pants and satin corsets. High collars and curving bracelet sleeves gave Capasa’s trenchcoats a futuristic sheen, while little leather vests, awash with fringe, gave his little-nothing chiffon dresses just the right dose of street smarts.

Loewe: Concise and clean. José Enrique Ona Selfa’s spring effort may not have reinvented the wheel, but it delivered clothes with an easy elegance that are sure to appeal to the Spanish house’s conservatively stylish clientele. The designer stuck largely to Loewe’s heritage: leather. Sharp dresses came with buckles on the side or in the back, as did short miniskirts and cute little jackets. The silhouette was linear without being severe, and neat leather skirts, halter dresses and skinny trousers with geometric overstitching had insouciant sophistication, with a slight nod to the Eighties. Ona Selfa softened it up with floaty chiffon tops, and he added a dash of sex appeal with skimpy bikinis, some with leather straps, others beaded with jewelry.

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