The Milan malaise — it’s been the topic of the week. Everybody knows that except for Prada, trends do not start here, nor does anything resembling new talent stop here for any length of time. At its best, Milan boasts other strengths — beautiful, approachable, still-interesting clothes and exquisite manufacturing.
Unfortunately, midway through the collections here, they have been in scant supply. Case in point: Gucci, where on Wednesday Frida Giannini showed an inexplicable collection.
At this point, Gucci’s era of high influence is long gone, replaced by a calmer aura all the way around, except for the numbers, which just keep soaring. There’s nothing wrong with Giannini’s runway supporting the reality that Gucci is, first and foremost, not a hotbed for trends, but a major commercial gold mine bringing chic to the tony masses. Only, the clothes Giannini showed were anything but a commercial juggernaut. They played like a joust between silvery Courrèges space chicks and Eastern European majorettes, jacketed, caped and outlined in patent purple and red. Huh? Even the scores of printed baby-doll dresses could only look not silly on models -— a notoriously unreliable market.
What is Gucci today? A little jacket over tight pants? A loud print slapped onto every possible garment? Shoes with hardware? Those motifs, even when attractive, hardly make a fashion image. Then again, maybe it doesn’t matter. Perhaps the cash cow that is Gucci will ultimately put the lie to the truism about a strong fashion identity fueling the best of accessories machines.
For now, however, it’s hard to imagine this collection fueling anything but dismay.
Harrods plans to remove the famous statue of Princess Diana and Dodi Al Fayed from the bottom of the Egyptian escalators and hand it back to Mohamed Al-Fayed. “We are very proud to have played our role in celebrating the lives of Diana, Princess of Wales and Dodi Al Fayed at Harrods and to have welcomed people from around the world to visit the memorial for the past 20 years,” said Michael Ward, Harrods managing director. “With the announcement of the new official memorial statue to Diana, Princess of Wales at Kensington Palace, we feel that the time is right to return this memorial to Mr. Al Fayed and for the public to be invited to pay their respects at the palace.” More on the news, with reporting by @loreleimarfil, at WWD.com. #wwdnews
@prada is introducing a new project at its men’s fall 2018 show this Sunday: “Prada Invites.” The fashion house invited four celebrated creative minds – @ronanaerwanbouroullec, Konstantin Grcic, @herzogdemeuron and @rem.koolhaas – to each create a unique item with its iconic nylon material. The designs will be unveiled on the runway show, which will take place at the company’s warehouse in Viale Ortles 25. #wwdfashion #mfwm (📷: @martinocarrera)
@kering_official is spinning off its stake in puma in an effort to focus on its luxury brands, the brand operator announced yesterday. “We are proud to have supported the turnaround of Puma, which now has unrivaled capabilities to take full advantage of the specific dynamics of its global markets and is poised to achieve substantial growth,” said François-Henri Pinault, Kering’s chief executive officer and chairman. Artémis will become a “long-term strategic shareholder” of Puma with a 29 percent stake. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
The fashion world mourns for celebrated street style photographer, Nabile Quenum, who died at age 32 in Paris.
Quenum, creator of the fashion blog “J’ai Perdu Ma Veste,” was a fashion week fixture, and regularly shot for New York magazine’s The Cut, among other outlets, and brands such as Louis Vuitton, Moncler and Adidas. He was also actively involved in the #NoFreePhotos initiative, which kicked off in the fall. Read more about Quenum in @kbsmoke's story on WWD.com. #wwdnews
@verwanggang and @maisonladuree have teamed up on a dessert collab called Vera Wang Pour Ladurée. The collection, which launched this week, features a specialty macaroon, as well as a wedding cake inspired by one of the designer’s gowns. “I could not imagine a more delicate or sophisticated creation to grace any couple’s celebration,” said Wang. #wwdfashion