In what one can only assume was Jean Paul Gaultier’s ill-advised attempt to jazz up an otherwise quiet collection, models at the Hermès show performed an old-school runway routine — grinning, nodding to each other, walking arm in arm or awkwardly holding hands — as they strolled down a gangplank onto a boardwalk runway lined with uncomfortable deck chairs. Not only was the corny seaside scene a distraction, it added about 30 years to the clothes.

That said, Gaultier showed plenty of posh basics that simply made good sense. His suede baseball jackets worked a sporty-luxe edge. Swimwear done up with gold hardware played to the house’s glamorous side. Polished pantsuits in jersey showed off Gaultier’s impeccable tailoring, while pretty chiffon dresses were breezy as a summer’s stroll — a fact that came across with no cringe-making mis en scene necessary.

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