Sonia Rykiel: Left Bank designer Sonia Rykiel scored with a frisky collection, featuring models cavorting in ultrasmall striped bikinis or floaty chiffon dresses. Elaborating on her favorite knitwear motif, Rykiel worked sweaters into oversized...
Sonia Rykiel: Left Bank designer Sonia Rykiel scored with a frisky collection, featuring models cavorting in ultrasmall striped bikinis or floaty chiffon dresses. Elaborating on her favorite knitwear motif, Rykiel worked sweaters into oversized dresses that dangled off the shoulders or slouchy knit trousers with utility pockets. Her miniskirts and satin lingerie dresses picked up on this season’s sexy vibe. Rykiel’s still got plenty of vivacity and kick.
Guy Laroche: Laetitia Hecht, in her second collection for Guy Laroche, has begun to direct this aging house down the comeback trail. Hecht, who was inspired by Africa, interpreted safari looks with low-slung utility pants paired with sexy lacy tops and also worked a glamorous African-queen angle with slinky chiffon dresses.
Issey Miyake: Naoki Takizawa delivered his best collection yet as design director for the house of Issey Miyake. Takizawa’s serene draped dresses, which were inspired by antique books, came in parchment colors or printed calligraphic script. But not all of the references were literal, so to speak. Colors ranging from aqua to yellow added a romantic twist, while his jackets with multiple folds on the lapels and pieces with crisscross lace lattices provided a window into the designer’s prolific mind.
AF Vandevorst: Belgian design duo An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx cranked out a solid collection, their best in seasons. A silver brocade coat set the tone and presaged fetching pleated skirts, slim cropped pants and chiffon dresses. Cool beiges and whites were interrupted by bursts of bright red. The designers avoided the too-tricky, and moved forward with a softer, more sophisticated vision. Even their pleated skirts, worn with a bib suspended from the neck, were graceful.
Paco Rabanne: Artistic director Rosemary Rodriguez is plugged into the spirit of Paco Rabanne, who continues to serve as a consultant for the house. Her winning spring collection balanced Rabanne’s signature chain-link minidresses and metal Amazon bikinis with more approachable sportswear. Rodriguez revisited Rabanne’s aesthetic in jewelry-like halter tops and developed a Japanese theme with kimono jackets and tops.
Kenzo: Gilles Rosier, the designer at LVMH-owned Kenzo, tuned into the house’s fantasy heritage with a collection that went south of the border — to Mexico. Models wore sombreros or sported tooled-leather dresses with Latin-flavored embroidery. His parrot print added a festive twist to this upbeat collection.
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)
The @cfda has shifted the dates of #NYFW, with Men’s showing on February 5 through February 7, and Women’s will directly follow, running from February 8 through 14. The preliminary schedule will be released on the CFDA’s web site in the next few days, but Mark Beckham, VP of marketing for the CFDA, revealed that @rafsimons will be back to close the men’s-specific part of the week with a show on February 7 #wwdfashion (📷: Kelly Taub)
@ferragamo is introducing a new space dedicated to the development of women’s and men’s leather good samples. The laboratory, which is created eco-friendly materials and designed to reduce the environmental impact of the manufacturing processes, will allow the company to expand its accessories offering through traditional artisanal approaches. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
How does a “regular, degular, schmegular” girl from the Bronx, N.Y., become a Grammy-nominated artist with a certified platinum record in less than a year? Call it the @iamcardib come up. The 25-year-old has become a musical sensation, and the fashion world is taking note. “If I could describe her style I would say drama. She’s really into the dramatics,” says Cardi B’s stylist @kollincarter. See how Carter styles her bold and out there looks with the link in bio. #wwdfashion
“There is no formula. There is no guideline. I can watch Ted Talks all day, but there is no one who can advise me on exactly what it is I should be doing,” said @ronniefieg, CEO of @kith, in an interview with WWD’s @ariahughes at the brand’s new SoHo office in Manhattan. Head to WWD.com to see how Fieg went from hanging out in shoe stockrooms at 13 to building his own business. #wwdfashion (📷: @weston.wells)
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion