In a season rife with futuristic gestures, perhaps no one has been more forward thinking than Hussein Chalayan, who, with his collection of mechanically transforming dresses, seemed to throw down a gauntlet on what tomorrow may actually hold in store.
Will women one day wear suits that, at the flick of a button, transform into a gown? Or a hat that becomes a great coat?
Chalayan certainly made a stirring case for such two-in-one creations — while also offering a cunning visual feast. Think, for instance, of his lacy Victorian dress that delightfully morphed -— its hem shrinking to the calf — into a flapper-style dress. Or the transparent sheath that slowly retracted into the brim of a hat — leaving its model stark naked.
Chalayan said he had aimed to explore more than a century of fashion history with the six dresses that served as a finale of an already engaging show.
“I really wanted to reference the past to create completely contemporary elements,” the designer said, adding that it took five months with a movie special-effects team to perfect the computer technology to make the dresses work. “It was a real challenge for everyone involved.”
Anyone who has followed Chalayan knows hybrid and transformation have been among his recurring themes. (Remember the collection that turned into furniture?) Yet this outing marked an undeniable evolution, executed with a lightness of touch that only strengthened his thought-provoking premise. (He’s currently in talks with the Gagosian Gallery about a possible show.)
Artsy flourishes aside, it was the rest of his beguiling clothes that made the collection a worthwhile whole. His starting theme was headgear, with hats integrated into jackets and dresses — one particular standout looked like a jellyfish on the model’s head — followed by a succession of pretty graphic dresses and cool coats. These led to his dissecting of the futuristic aesthetic, including a minidress of pearls and another of plastic bubbles.
Unifying the experimental and the merch was what seemed a newfound grace chez Chalayan. “I’m really obsessed with the body,” he said. “Ultimately, the goal in all of my clothes is to create a sense of life.”
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
For men’s fall 2018, @giuseppezanotti drew on elements from streetwear, sport, biker, combat and rock ‘n’ roll. Pictured here are a pair of shoes from the collection, featuring zippers, rhinestones, and silver hardware. Head to WWD.com to see a roundup of the accessories from Milan’s men’s fall 2018 shows. #wwdfashion (📷: Andrea Delb)
To celebrate the 25th anniversary of @ralphlauren’s snowboarding collection, the brand is mining its archives. The iconic brand is reintroducing vintage styles and dropping new designs for a color capsule that will be available in Ralph Lauren stores and @openingceremony on January 25. The capsule will consist of 10 pieces, including the Snow Beach Pullover, pictured here, which is a collector’s item that rapper Raekwon wore in Wu-Tang Clan’s “Can It Be All So Simple” video. #wwdfashion (📷: Tom Gould)
For @rochasofficial’s pre-fall 2018 collection, creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua channeled the sophisticated and intriguing Catherine Denevue in the film “Belle de Jour.” Polished collarless coats, midi skirts, suits and ’60s graphic motifs were all featured in the collection, adding a sense of discreet luxury. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion
“We tried to produce clothing of that couture quality, but the most daunting part was that we only had a matter of days [to do it],” said costume designer Lou Eyrich, who recreated Gianni Versace’s iconic looks for @americancrimestoryfx. Eyrich searched online retailers and vintage shops for original pieces from the design house and for @penelopecruzoficial, who plays Donatella Versace. Head to WWD.com to read how she created the Versace world. #wwdfashion
Only three months after her stellar debut catwalk season, @kaiagerber has inked her first big design collaboration –– with @karllagerfeld. The collection blends Lagerfeld’s Parisian chic aesthetic and the model’s signature West Coast casual style via RTW, accessories, footwear and more. The #KarlLagerfeldxKaia collection will launch in September with a series of events. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
Harrods plans to remove the famous statue of Princess Diana and Dodi Al Fayed from the bottom of the Egyptian escalators and hand it back to Mohamed Al-Fayed. “We are very proud to have played our role in celebrating the lives of Diana, Princess of Wales and Dodi Al Fayed at Harrods and to have welcomed people from around the world to visit the memorial for the past 20 years,” said Michael Ward, Harrods managing director. “With the announcement of the new official memorial statue to Diana, Princess of Wales at Kensington Palace, we feel that the time is right to return this memorial to Mr. Al Fayed and for the public to be invited to pay their respects at the palace.” More on the news, with reporting by @loreleimarfil, at WWD.com. #wwdnews