Miuccia Prada played with graphic cutouts and color for Miu Miu, while Ralph Rucci dressed up his signature styles with braided straps and cording for Chado.
Miu Miu: Miuccia Prada loves to leave her audience in the dark. Conceptually, this can be stimulating; literally, not so much. Attendees at Miu Miu arrived to find themselves in a practically pitch-black — and utterly cramped — room, which didn't exactly set a pleasant mood. And the opening exit — a two-tone thermal onesie, slick and techy in a scuba wet suit way — didn't exactly jolt them out of that preshow funk.
What followed were variations on that sporty jumpsuit, recast as a zip-up sheath, jacket over biker shorts and so on, while maintaining an athletic-yet-power babe vibe throughout. Another case in point: the jockish perforated mesh top in orange, brown and blue colorblocking. But that bizarre look, severe though it was, began to grow on you, even with everything cut awkwardly — purposely so — with pronounced hips and a rather puckered overall silhouette. It's a conceit central to the Prada ethos: deliberate weirdness.
Here, it amused more than irritated. Take, for instance, the focus on lace. Prada took a trend she trailblazed back in Milan and made it completely different. Rather than veering austere and ladylike, she made it graphic and Space Age, almost cartoony, in abstract grid, bubble and chevron patterns, and gave it the sequin treatment for night. Accessories, meanwhile, came in the form of galoshes and retro-looking bowling bags. And there is one new soon-to-be-hot trend the designer ushered in: press-on monograms. Each outfit was chicly accented with the models' initials, like varsity letters. Score one for team Miu Miu.
Chado Ralph Rucci: Ralph Rucci never strays far from his triple A's: art, architecture and Asia. And while he stayed true to all three in his season-closing fall collection, the mood was lighter and more modern than usual. True, the upbeat techno music that replaced his usual serene tea-ceremony score and the abbreviated presentation — no special couture addendum this time — added energy to the atmosphere, but the clothes also moved in an updated direction, as in a slicked-up vinyl raincoat, pressed with a webby geometric pattern, and several fluorescent green looks. That said, Rucci certainly didn't abandon his signature aesthetic marked by ultraupscale fabrics and an Eastern flourish. The corded wool jersey dresses, woven leathers, double-faced cashmere suiting and fancy eveningwear were all there. He scaled back in the right places, showing less of the house's signature face and script prints, while showing more in the way of subdued evening- and outerwear with simple hammered silk dresses and lots of luxe furs. The results will please his existing customers and likely appeal to some new ones in those coveted emerging markets.
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye
"Nowadays when life is not so happy with everything going on in the world, I think people come to me for a little bit of whimsy and color and fun." - Designer Rebecca De Ravenel on her cult-favorite jewelry line. (📸 : @vsteves) #wwd40
“Everyone is talking about how the retail industry is struggling, but I think it’s an incredible time because brands who are doing something different and innovative are setting themselves up for the future,” said @adamgoldston, who founded the luxury athletic brand @apl with his brother @ryangoldsten. The Goldston’s are part of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables. See the rest of the list on WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
@eyeswoon blogger Athena Calderone debuted her first-ever cookbook, “Cook Beautiful,” which is heavily centered on the presentation and visual expression of food. Pictured here are her miso glazed carrots from the book. Get the recipe on WWD.com. (📷: @johnny_miller_) #wwdeye
“It’s passion that helps get anybody to a certain point and it’s what’s propelled me,” said Kith founder @ronniefieg, one of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables who are changing the face of retail, fashion and beauty. Fieg, who opened a Manhattan flagship on October 7, began his career at age 13 as a stock boy and salesman for footwear chain David Z. “I think staying true to [my] beliefs, hard work and passion have gotten me to where [Kith] is today.” See the rest of the 40 at WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
25-year-old @samweaving is about to break out this fall, starring in Netflix’s horror film “The Babysitter,” fittingly out today on Friday the 13th. That’s not the only place you’ll be seeing her, though — Weaving’s got a role Showtime’s “SMILF” and another alongside Frances McDormand and Woody Harrelson in “Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri.” Though she’s got a full plate at the moment, there’s one role she’s got her eye on: Marilyn Monroe. “I’m a little too young at the moment, but it’s on my bucket list,” the actress told WWD (📷: @dandoperalski) #wwdeye
BFF's Poppy Jamie and Suki Waterhouse celebrated the launch of their bag line Pop x Suki at Nordstrom last night. "The line is really about our friendship, and how we are so different but complement each other," said Waterhouse. 👯 (📷: Katie Jones) #wwdeye
After designing the new @louisvuitton and @bulgariofficial flagships and a @chanelofficial boutique opening in Japan, @petermarinoarchitect has another project on his plate: The Lobster Club. Located in the Seagram Building, it’s the famed architect’s first restaurant project in New York, serving up modern Japanese brasserie-style cuisine. Bronze hues, bespoke material detailing, blush and chartreuse tones and a heavy emphasis on Picasso can be seen throughout. Mark your calendars for Nov. 1 for the much-anticipated opening. (📷: @clint_spaulding) #wwdeye
Did you know: @carlychaikin of "Mr. Robot" has been painting for about a decade? The actress, who plays Darlene on the show, is a self-taught artist who lists Salvador Dalí and Chuck Close as some of her idols. Chaikin told WWD that painting is a form of meditation for her — A much-needed one given the intensity of "Mr. Robot." See a piece Chaikin is working on at WWD.com (📷: @jilliansollazzo) #wwdeye