Miuccia Prada played with graphic cutouts and color for Miu Miu, while Ralph Rucci dressed up his signature styles with braided straps and cording for Chado.
Miu Miu: Miuccia Prada loves to leave her audience in the dark. Conceptually, this can be stimulating; literally, not so much. Attendees at Miu Miu arrived to find themselves in a practically pitch-black — and utterly cramped — room, which didn't exactly set a pleasant mood. And the opening exit — a two-tone thermal onesie, slick and techy in a scuba wet suit way — didn't exactly jolt them out of that preshow funk.
What followed were variations on that sporty jumpsuit, recast as a zip-up sheath, jacket over biker shorts and so on, while maintaining an athletic-yet-power babe vibe throughout. Another case in point: the jockish perforated mesh top in orange, brown and blue colorblocking. But that bizarre look, severe though it was, began to grow on you, even with everything cut awkwardly — purposely so — with pronounced hips and a rather puckered overall silhouette. It's a conceit central to the Prada ethos: deliberate weirdness.
Here, it amused more than irritated. Take, for instance, the focus on lace. Prada took a trend she trailblazed back in Milan and made it completely different. Rather than veering austere and ladylike, she made it graphic and Space Age, almost cartoony, in abstract grid, bubble and chevron patterns, and gave it the sequin treatment for night. Accessories, meanwhile, came in the form of galoshes and retro-looking bowling bags. And there is one new soon-to-be-hot trend the designer ushered in: press-on monograms. Each outfit was chicly accented with the models' initials, like varsity letters. Score one for team Miu Miu.
Chado Ralph Rucci: Ralph Rucci never strays far from his triple A's: art, architecture and Asia. And while he stayed true to all three in his season-closing fall collection, the mood was lighter and more modern than usual. True, the upbeat techno music that replaced his usual serene tea-ceremony score and the abbreviated presentation — no special couture addendum this time — added energy to the atmosphere, but the clothes also moved in an updated direction, as in a slicked-up vinyl raincoat, pressed with a webby geometric pattern, and several fluorescent green looks. That said, Rucci certainly didn't abandon his signature aesthetic marked by ultraupscale fabrics and an Eastern flourish. The corded wool jersey dresses, woven leathers, double-faced cashmere suiting and fancy eveningwear were all there. He scaled back in the right places, showing less of the house's signature face and script prints, while showing more in the way of subdued evening- and outerwear with simple hammered silk dresses and lots of luxe furs. The results will please his existing customers and likely appeal to some new ones in those coveted emerging markets.
@pantone announced their Color of the Year 2018: Ultra Violet. Nearly 20 months after the musician Prince’s death, fashion is having a purple moment. Varying shades of purple appeared on spring or fall runways, from @christopherkane to @calvinklein. @gucci’s Alessandro Michele bathed his fall runway in ultra violet-colored light at one point. Pantone 18-3838 is meant to “push the boundaries of what inspires us to look upward and outward to the future.” #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@badgalriri’s @fentybeauty launch in September was a massive success on social media, powering $72.9 million of earned media value, according to Tribe Dynamics. The brand’s foundation offering sparked conversations about diversity in beauty, launching the growth of emerging influencers and propelling the brand’s support on social media. Today, #fentybeauty won Launch of the Year at the WWD #BeautyIncAwards. (📷: Chema Moya/EPE-EFE)
@marianna_hewitt has become one of the most influential content creators in the beauty space, with almost 800,000 Instagram followers and a newly launched skin care line called @SummerFridays. Today, she was awarded Influencer of the Year at the WWD #BeautyIncAwards. (📸: @sophiachabbott )
As shopping behaviors evolve, the retail experience must follow. Head over to retail experts @colliersinternational’s Knowledge Leader series to read more about the shift in our shopping era. #colliersretail #lovecolliers
@prada opened a pop-up club, called Prada Double Club, in collaboration with German artist Cartsen Höller at @artbasel Miami. Last night, guests – including @youngparis, @ritaora and even Miuccia Prada herself – gathered in a former ice factory where the pop-up is housed for a performance from @wyclefjean. Go to WWD.com for full coverage on all the exhibits, parties and more at #ArtBaselMiami. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
@louboutinworld and @disney are making magic once again, creating a set of shoe designs for the release of “Star Wars: The Last Jedi.” Louboutin designed a pair of shoes for each of the film’s four female leads: Rey (@daisyridrey), Vice Admiral Amilyn Holdo (@lauradern), Captain Phasma (Gwendoline Christie) and Rose Tico (@kellymarietran). The shoes will debut on Saturday at the L.A. premiere of the latest episode. #wwdfashion
Today at the #BeautyIncAwards 2017, WWD will be joined by beauty leaders from around the world as we honor this year's most innovative people, products, brands and places. Follow along here and on Twitter for live coverage from the exclusive event. #wwdsummits (📷: @elizaflorendo)
Exclusive: Beauty superinfluencer @marianna_hewitt is launching her first-ever skin care brand with her business partner @laurengores. Their new line Summer Fridays, which will be sold exclusively at summerfridays.com starting in January, is launching with just one product – a hydrating cream Jet Lag Mask. “We wanted to focus on one product that was amazing,” said Hewitt. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews
Michelin star-rated chef PJ Calapa marks his first solo endeavor with today’s opening of @scampinyc –– the new Southern Italian restaurant located in Manhattans’ Flatiron District. The upscale yet welcoming environment matches the menu, which includes two types of scampi: traditional Italian langoustines in butter and the Americanized version with shrimp over pasta 🍤 - pictured here. #wwdeye (📷: George Chinsee)