NEW YORK — Don’t overreach. That seemed to be the mantra this week, as the more successful collections stayed focused — and pretty — while those that didn’t work were overwrought and overthought.
Carlos Miele, for example, didn’t reinvent the wheel with his lovely printed and hand-painted silk chiffon and satin evening dresses that were sexy and snug. Some of the standout looks included the golden lace patchwork top with floaty sleeves. Rachel Comey also stripped away the fuss for spring, and sent out a pure, crisp lineup of summery cotton frocks with a sporty bent. There were even gymnastics chalk marks on the models’ arms and legs. She rarely strayed from her bright white palette with splashes of gray prints. Everything, certainly, was pretty and wearable — especially the mesh and cutout bodysuits — but it wasn’t Comey’s most interesting effort.
While Patrik Rzepski may have a penchant to provoke — he showed on Sept. 11, and presented a collection inspired by the Baader-Meinhof gang, a Seventies German terrorist group — his spring line was rather retail-friendly. He sent out African batik-print jumpsuits, full skirts and sashes, along with breezy cotton dresses and jersey jumpers. Brazilian designer Geová Rodriguez, for his part, opened his Geová show with a moment of silence to commemorate September 11th. But after that, the mood quickly changed as he sent out lively dresses, such as a burnt gold-copper number and the beautiful frocks in black and white prints. It’s too bad that the over-accessorizing with fake flowers and huge hats stole the attention away from what we actually came to see — the clothes.
Newcomer Cat Swanson showed promise with her sleek bolero jackets and fun party frocks made from a patchwork of rainbow-bright chiffons, but her overuse of color sometimes created dizzying looks that were better suited to a Brazilian Carneval. At the other end of the spectrum, the slow and broody soundtrack at Donald Deal set an almost somber mood for his show as the models walked at an adagio pace and looked as sad as can be. This staging certainly didn’t help Deal’s evening gowns, which were average fare. One noteworthy dress, though, was the sunflower-dotted chiffon draped halter gown. David Rodriguez also faltered a bit for spring with his Italy-inspired collection that lacked the sophistication of his muse, Sophia Loren. The evening coats had unflattering silhouettes, and some of the day looks were compromised by such details as a tacky black organza bow fastened from the back of the shoulders that billowed like a short train. There were pretty suits in tweed and leather, however.Elsewhere, Rosita Hurtado and Carmine DiSarno debuted their line, Rosita & DiSarno, with Victoria Gotti-style gowns in a palette of turquoise, yellow and fuchsia. Gotti herself, in fact, appeared on the runway in a crocheted tube dress, while her sons, Carmine, John and Frank, sat in the front row. A few words of advice: Leave the ruffled tweeds where they belong — in last season’s lineup. And there were plenty of stars at Fusha, where Damon Dash, Ja Rule, Casey Johnson, Janice Combs, Nicole Richie, Tyson Beckford and Vivica A. Fox showed up. Of course, it helped that designer Marie Claudinette Jean is married to Wyclef Jean. But, unfortunately, the designer couldn’t deliver on the clothes. Marie Claudinette went with a nature theme for spring — deserts, oceans, coral and floral — and took the idea too literally, showing sweeping gowns and dresses heavy with foliage-shaped appliqués.
And Alfred Fiandaca returned to New York with his Fiandaca line, delivering more of his commercial eveningwear that this time had a certain Asian whimsy complete with butterfly and hydrangea prints on chiffon. But altogether, the looks were essentially conventional.
In honor the @CFDA’s announcement of @iamnaomicampbell receiving the Fashion Icon Award at the 2018 #CFDAAwards, which will take place on June 4, here’s a #tbt of the supermodel on @michaelkors’ runway in 1991. #wwdfashion #wwdarchive (📷: George Chinsee)
“I was making the guacamole when my scout saw me,” says model @stuckinteenage on being discovered just six months ago while working at @chipotlemexicangrill. Since then Williams has signed with @dnamodels, walked in her first show at @calvinklein and landed on the cover of @vogueitalia – a high point of any model’s career. To read @lisajlockwood’s full interview with the model on her experiences thus far, head to WWD.com – link in bio. (📷: George Chinsee)
“I love the idea of dialogue, period. It’s where I’ve always gotten my inspiration from: hearing other women speak, their journeys and their paths,” said @hereisgina, who delivered the keynote speech during @sxsw for @createcultivate in partnership with @fossil. For her two panels, Rodriguez chose female empowering, female-led and female entrepreneurs to focus on. Head to WWD.com to read more about her thoughts on Time’s Up, growing up in a family of women and why we “need a girls’ club.” #wwdeye #sxsw (📷: @jgreenery)
Leading luxury brand are shaking things up to keep up with streetwear. Case in point: the arrival of @mrkimjones as artistic director of @diorhomme. Jones, who succeeds @Kris_Van_Assche, is seen as one of the handful of designers who can actually straddle the luxury and streetwear worlds — which could lead to even more changes at established brands. What could this mean for the rest of the menswear landscape? Head to WWD.com to find out what experts predict #wwdfashion (📷: @franckmura)
“It’s like buying groceries. You’re going to buy the best mango, the best mozzarella, the best things. You have to, or others are going to take it all,” said @gabrielahearst on why she uses only the finest fabrics. Last week, Hearst received her first @cfda nomination for Womenswear Designer of the Year, and earlier this month she opened a permanent showroom in Paris. To read @jessiredale’s interview with the designer and find out why this is shaping up to be a big year for her, head to WWD.com. #wwdfashion (📷: @francoisgoize)
“It’s an interesting thing, playing a younger version of your mother. It’s an interesting concept. I adore my mom and love her in every capacity, but it was just something that had never crossed my mind,” says @anniemstarke on playing a young Joan Castleman in “The Wife.” The same role will be played by her mother Glenn Close. Read more about her growing up in the film industry as the daughter of producer John H. Starke and Close and what she has planned for the future #wwdeye (📷: @nataliamantini)
@asics is launching a new streetwear sneaker inspired by its latest ambassador, @steveaoki. The Hyper-Kenzen x Aoki, which will launch at @footlocker stores exclusively tomorrow, is a slip-on style that incorporates the brand’s proprietary Gel technology through beads integrated into the midsole for comfort and endurance. Read the full story on WWD.com.