PARIS -- Adieu to raunch and sex, bonjour to innocence and femininity.
That's the message in French ad campaigns for spring 2002, which have ditched the hard-edged in favor of a Snow White approach -- in some cases literally. Louis Vuitton, for instance, has gone for a fairy-tale theme for its spring ads, while Dior has opted for a celestial bubble bath.
"We all agreed that we should do something a little outside of reality," said Marc Jacobs, Vuitton's creative director. "That's part of what luxury is: selling a dream."
Vuitton president Marcello Bottoli said the house's ads, photographed by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggot, were based on "Snow White," "Alice in Wonderland" and "Sleeping Beauty." "But it's still very Vuitton because it's travel -- only this time, the voyage is an interior one, the voyage of the imagination," he said.
Most firms insist their campaigns were not created as a direct reaction to Sept. 11 -- even if the images are soothing. Instead, they say their ads reflect the mood of the collections, which boasted lots of white, upbeat clothes with a holiday feel. Designers also insisted their spring ad budgets are on a par with spring 2001, although they admitted they have kept a tight rein on expenses for the shoots. Some firms are rethinking how the money is spent, though. Givenchy is focusing its print spend for spring -- the first featuring the rtw designs of new artistic director Julien Macdonald -- only on "leading" fashion titles, opting for "high-impact" multipage spreads of up to eight pages in such magazines as French Vogue, Italian Vogue and V, said Amelie Rouyer, advertising manager. The campaign was shot by Mario Testino, with Carmen Kass as the featured model.
Karl Lagerfeld warned that it's dangerous to be too politically correct in these times. "Even if the world has changed, people still want to be happy," he said.
Lagerfeld shot the Chanel campaign with Stella Tennant in Biarritz, France. The mostly black-and-white images have a cinematic quality, but the intent was to capture Tennant as epitomizing and idealizing the Chanel customer. "She looks like somebody who owns the clothes, and that's the best thing that can happen," Lagerfeld said.Tom Ford, Gucci Group creative director, described the YSL Rive Gauche campaign as a "continuation" of the past two seasons, with photographer Steven Meisel zooming in on leather skirts pierced with gold rings, and peplum jackets with intricate embroidery.
"We wanted to show the handiwork and put the emphasis on the details," Ford said.
John Galliano said the Dior campaign, featuring Gisele Bundchen and shot by Nick Knight amid a sea of suds that sometimes resemble clouds, is positive and optimistic. "It's a free spirit, a new spontaneous energy," he said. "Overt sexuality is passe."
His is a sentiment that was echoed by many designers, from Jean Paul Gaultier to James Aguiar, creative consultant at Nina Ricci, which reunited with photographer David Hamilton, whom it had used in the Seventies, to re-create a soft, feminine atmosphere. At Chloe, the predominant element of the campaign, shot in Cape Town, South Africa, by German photographer Horst Diekgerdes, is the sun, said designer Phoebe Philo. "The sun creates a sensual atmosphere in a feeling of extreme well-being, explaining why the images seem overexposed," she said. "The sexiness doesn't need to be obvious anymore."
Supermodel @helenachristensen teamed up with longtime friend and designer @camillastaerk on a joint @paredeyewear collaboration. The lineup features three styles and 11 offerings, all of which embody a vintage feel. Get all the details on how they celebrated the collab on WWD.com. #wwdaccessories #wwdeye (📷: @slovekinpics)
“It’s a hard industry to keep motivated, as well, so finding different subjects and people is what makes it worth it – when you’re like, oh, I’ve met great people, I feel like I’ve done something good, and I feel proud of having done this,” said French actress Stacy Martin on being grateful for the variety of roles she’s take on. Read @ktauer’s full interview with Martin on her her latest film “Godard Mon Amour.” #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
After showing in front of the Eiffel Tower for his last two women’s ready-to-wear collection, it looks like @anthonyvaccarello may be heading to the Big Apple. Sources say the designer will stage his next @ysl show in NYC on June 6. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
EXCLUSIVE: Two and half months after John Targon, cofounder and codesigner of Baja East, was hired as creative director of the contemporary division at Marc Jacobs, he has left the company, WWD has learned. Marc Jacobs International, which is owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, confirmed Targon’s departure in a statement: “John Targon is a talented designer and we appreciate the work he has done here. Ultimately working together did not make sense for the brand and we wish him the best.” Read the story by @jessiredale, link in bio. #wwdnews
@theluxurycollection is officially launching a collection, tapping Sofia Sanchez de Betak for the capsule. Over 30 styles will be featured in the Chufy x The Luxury Collection, debuting next month at Bergdorf Goodman, The Webster, FiveStory and more. De Betak, known as “@chufy,” drew inspiration for the collection from her trips to Japan in the past year #wwdfashion
@lhd, founder and CEO of @thewebster, has teamed up with @lebonmarcherivegauche for the European launch of her ready-to-wear line, LHD. The launch will come with an exclusive pop-up opening today that’s set to run through May 20. Located on the second floor, it carries her debut Miami-themed resort collection, launched in November as see-now-buy-now. #wwdfashion