PARIS -- Adieu to raunch and sex, bonjour to innocence and femininity.
That's the message in French ad campaigns for spring 2002, which have ditched the hard-edged in favor of a Snow White approach -- in some cases literally. Louis Vuitton, for instance, has gone for a fairy-tale theme for its spring ads, while Dior has opted for a celestial bubble bath.
"We all agreed that we should do something a little outside of reality," said Marc Jacobs, Vuitton's creative director. "That's part of what luxury is: selling a dream."
Vuitton president Marcello Bottoli said the house's ads, photographed by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggot, were based on "Snow White," "Alice in Wonderland" and "Sleeping Beauty." "But it's still very Vuitton because it's travel -- only this time, the voyage is an interior one, the voyage of the imagination," he said.
Most firms insist their campaigns were not created as a direct reaction to Sept. 11 -- even if the images are soothing. Instead, they say their ads reflect the mood of the collections, which boasted lots of white, upbeat clothes with a holiday feel. Designers also insisted their spring ad budgets are on a par with spring 2001, although they admitted they have kept a tight rein on expenses for the shoots. Some firms are rethinking how the money is spent, though. Givenchy is focusing its print spend for spring -- the first featuring the rtw designs of new artistic director Julien Macdonald -- only on "leading" fashion titles, opting for "high-impact" multipage spreads of up to eight pages in such magazines as French Vogue, Italian Vogue and V, said Amelie Rouyer, advertising manager. The campaign was shot by Mario Testino, with Carmen Kass as the featured model.
Karl Lagerfeld warned that it's dangerous to be too politically correct in these times. "Even if the world has changed, people still want to be happy," he said.
Lagerfeld shot the Chanel campaign with Stella Tennant in Biarritz, France. The mostly black-and-white images have a cinematic quality, but the intent was to capture Tennant as epitomizing and idealizing the Chanel customer. "She looks like somebody who owns the clothes, and that's the best thing that can happen," Lagerfeld said.Tom Ford, Gucci Group creative director, described the YSL Rive Gauche campaign as a "continuation" of the past two seasons, with photographer Steven Meisel zooming in on leather skirts pierced with gold rings, and peplum jackets with intricate embroidery.
"We wanted to show the handiwork and put the emphasis on the details," Ford said.
John Galliano said the Dior campaign, featuring Gisele Bundchen and shot by Nick Knight amid a sea of suds that sometimes resemble clouds, is positive and optimistic. "It's a free spirit, a new spontaneous energy," he said. "Overt sexuality is passe."
His is a sentiment that was echoed by many designers, from Jean Paul Gaultier to James Aguiar, creative consultant at Nina Ricci, which reunited with photographer David Hamilton, whom it had used in the Seventies, to re-create a soft, feminine atmosphere. At Chloe, the predominant element of the campaign, shot in Cape Town, South Africa, by German photographer Horst Diekgerdes, is the sun, said designer Phoebe Philo. "The sun creates a sensual atmosphere in a feeling of extreme well-being, explaining why the images seem overexposed," she said. "The sexiness doesn't need to be obvious anymore."
My character, Dinah Madani, is just the coolest, [most] badass woman imaginable," says @amberroserevah. The actress stars in @marvel's newest series on @netflix, @thepunisher. To prepare for her role, Revah sat down with Homeland agents to get a real sense of with Dinah's day-to-day life is really like. Read our full interview on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
A scene from the 91st annual @macys Thanksgiving Day Parade. The parade, which boasts 50 million TV viewers and 3.5 million on-site spectators, is considered one of the largest and most watched parades in the world. (📷: Jason Szenes/EPA-REX)
The circus came to @bloomingdales 59th Street on Tuesday night and lit up Lexington Avenue with acrobatic dancers, death-defying knife throwing, sword swallowing and aerial acts with no net. The 45 minutes of theatrics built up to unveiling the holiday windows depicting @swarovski crystal-encrusted circus pieces and scenes from “The Greatest Showman” – songs from the soundtrack included. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Joshua Scott)
The psychedelic fashion that pervaded the ’60s is back with an exhibit at the @museumofcityny. “Mode New York: Fashion Takes a Trip” chronicles the changing styles from 1960 through 1973 and features designers such as @ysl, @oscardelarenta and more. The exhibition, which is on display through April 1, is organized into four periods: First Lady Fasion, Youthquake, New Bohemia and New Nonchalance. Pictured here is model Pat Bardonella during the Garvey Day Parade in 1968. (📷: @kwamebphoto) #wwdeye #wwdfashion
“People should be a lot more honest in expressing both the dark and light of themselves. We need to give each other the space to do that because it’s the only way we can grow and evolve,” says @noelwells of her new film “Mr. Roosevelt,” which is largely based on her own struggles. Unexpectedly leaving @nbcsnl in 2014 after just one season, Wells felt set back in her self-esteem and career trajectory. She quickly refocused her energy to more personal projects, which led to the completion of “Mr. Roosevelt.” Read the rest of WWD’s interview with the “Master of None” actress on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
@barbrastreisand is giving fans a chance to see her perform up close in a new concert series, which makes its debut on @Netflix today. From behind-the-scenes takes to her concert performance in Miami last December, the two-hour streaming special captures Streisand in her element. Pictured here is the singer/actress photographed for WWD in 1963. (📷: Palmieri Tony) #wwdeye #wwdarchive
@chanel and @pharrell dropped what’s being dubbed as the world’s most exclusive sneakers yesterday. The Adidas Originals NMD Hu, which Williams designed in collaboration with Chanel and @adidasoriginals, has a waiting list of over 120K people who pre-registered online at chanelatcolette.fr –– and only 500 pairs are on sale. The singer predicted the resale value of the shoes could reach $40K. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdfashion (📷: Dominique Maître)
@imanshumpert is diving deeper into his creative endeavors and relaunching his clothing line, Post 90s, and is helping to raise money for the hurricane victims in St. Maarten with a jersey he’s designed with his brother. The Cleveland Cavaliers player talked to WWD about kneeling during the national anthem, working with fashion brands and how he wants to be more than an @nba player. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)