The inspiration. It’s the starting point for most collections, the seed that germinates into a designer’s creative direction for the season. It’s also a way to peek into the designer’s mind and work process, a point made effectively by the “Dries Van Noten: Inspirations” exhibition, which opened to rave reviews at Paris’ Musée des Arts Décoratifs during Paris Fashion Week.
Fashion history is filled with fascinating examples, both literal—like Yves Saint Laurent’s 1965 Mondrian day dress—and more abstract in the designer’s execution, as in Marc Jacobs’ memorable fall 2005 collection, dark and brooding and loosely inspired by Violet Parr of Disney’s The Incredibles.
Here, three of fall’s more interesting designer journeys.
Inspiration: Sixties German minimalism, the graphic bronze sculptures of Lynn Chadwick, plus the book cover of Jessie Dumont’s I Prefer Girls, a work of Sixties lesbian pulp fiction, featuring an image of two women in a suggestive, if not risqué, pose—one in a body-hugging red dress with matching lipstick. “I found this cover in a vintage archive and loved every aspect of it, most of all, how bold she looked in red and how shapely her silhouette was,” says Rodriguez.
Execution: The first three looks—including the sleek red coat that opened the show—“embody that silhouette and shapeliness, even though they are a bit more relaxed,” Rodriguez explains. They were indeed vampish, though more subtly so.
VALENTINO Inspiration: Women of the late-Sixties Roman art scene, including Carol Rama, Carla Accardi and Giosetta Fioroni. “We are Roman. To us, the city is a consistent source of inspiration,” says Maria Grazia Chiuri. “This season, our inspiration came from the unconventional women whose works were deeply rooted in a moment of great change, a revolution in the Italian culture…these women, these artists, they were rule-breakers. They expressed their need to exist and not just appear.”
Execution: Pop Art patterns, including the colorful optical dot in vertical patterns on a slim leather jacket, for example, as well as oversize floral prints, commedia dell’arte diamond patterns, stripes and other geometric shapes. “The unique images of these artists and their enduring, significant and universal themes gave us an essence of purity, the pleasure of change, and we tried to create each outfit as a work of art, timeless,” Pierpaolo Piccioli adds. “The textured surfaces—printed, decorated with intarsia and embellished—express the collection’s kaleidoscopic character and vital unpredictability.”
@chanel and @pharrell dropped what’s being dubbed as the world’s most exclusive sneakers yesterday. The Adidas Originals NMD Hu, which Williams designed in collaboration with Chanel and @adidasoriginals, has a waiting list of over 120K people who pre-registered online at chanelatcolette.fr –– and only 500 pairs are on sale. The singer predicted the resale value of the shoes could reach $40K. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdfashion (📷: Dominique Maître)
@imanshumpert is diving deeper into his creative endeavors and relaunching his clothing line, Post 90s, and is helping to raise money for the hurricane victims in St. Maarten with a jersey he’s designed with his brother. The Cleveland Cavaliers player talked to WWD about kneeling during the national anthem, working with fashion brands and how he wants to be more than an @nba player. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
Not only does #TheProfit return to CNBC tonight, but @marcuslemonis has launched @shopmarcus, a new shopping and lifestyle retail experience in Aspen and Chicago, with more locations to come. The retail stores offer in-store stylists and a variety of contemporary womenswear selections.
“It’s life, I’m going to face it,” @mingxi11 sighed. “I fell, but you know, I think the most important thing is that I get back up. I had the love, the help from my sister — the girl next to me Gizele [Oliveira] — she’s so nice. When I went backstage everybody was trying to comfort me like ‘Oh Ming, it’s OK.’ I’m really, really touched. I think it’s them who gave me the courage to go back on stage for the finale,” Xi told WWD of her fall at the @victoriassecret fashion show. (📷: David Fisher) #wwdfashion #vsfashionshow #victoriassecret
@louisvuitton tapped @therealpeterlindbergh for its latest city-centric photo book, which is part of a series called Fashion Eye. The primarily black and white book captures the spirit of Berlin in 57 images shot between 1989 and 2019. “Berlin is an inspiration for me, more than a city. I mean @millajovovich is simply Berlin!” said Lindbergh. #wwdfashion
“You know, I think audiences expect a certain performance so I have to deliver to them what they’re expecting to a certain degree. But I’m also a different actor and a different person, I have my own spin on the character,” says @noahegalvin of his takeover of the leading role in “Dear Evan Hansen” following the departure of @bensplatt, who originated the role. Read WWD’s interview with the 23-year-old actor on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
For pre-fall 2018, @etro created richly-colored wonderland, using tapestries, textiles and wallpapers from the Eastern world at large. The line featured floral and graphic prints and jacquard motifs, like this two-piece look featured here. #wwdfashion (📷: Giovanna Pavesi)
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)