AGRATE BRIANZA, Italy — Dario Ferrari, president of Intercos, has become a speed demon.
"Speed is the new strategy; it's true around the world," he said, from his headquarters here. "We can have customers go to market in nine months maximum, when it used to take two to three years."
He said because of globalization and since launches are now so fast, formulas under the old time frame have become obsolete. So, Intercos, long considered the industry's leading color cosmetics supplier, is opening a new factory in China this month for the domestic market. The company is also replacing its duty free factory with a bigger, 543,000-square-foot one, set to be complete in the next three years.
"China represents speed," he said.
To supply the local market, Intercos executives interviewed 6,000 Chinese color cosmetics consumers to understand their beauty habits and wishes. "We're definitely developing a product portfolio dedicated to China," said Ferrari.
Intercos can now be subcontracted either to provide full service to its consumers or to provide packaging.
"We don't want to send our customers to the competition," explained Ferrari, who was talking the day before the opening of his company's trend presentation, which this year is called Passion.
This year's Intercos show highlights 130 innovative products that took inspiration from the works of artists Josef Albers and Sonia Delaunay. It was also created to put a much heavier focus on the end-use of product ideas — where beauty meets the ultimate customer. Intercos even randomly chose 20 final products and developed advertising campaigns for them.
"Our mission was to continue to be innovative, but also to be consumer-friendly and understandable with the end benefit of each product," said Rachel Bryan, a member of Intercos' trend team.
This year's session highlighted two diametrically opposed trends. One was called the Popular Movement, inspired by art, design and geometric shapes. Items shown here, such as a single-unit foundation and blusher, were in primary colors and made for someone living a fast lifestyle.
The other main trend is the Stellar Movement, housed in a room designed with a Galactic theme. Here, Intercos created products with abstract curves and details in a mélange of metallics. This collection was designed to be feminine and warm, with "weightless celestial shine" and layering. Some items are formulated with a patented raw material to give an added treatment, so there are water-based products billed to moisturize skin immediately.
London’s newly opened @designmuseum will look back on the life and work of Azzedine Alaïa in a show that the designer helped to curate before he died of heart failure last month. The retrospective, which Alaïa had worked on with Mark Wilson, chief curator of the @groningermuseum, will look at the impact of his work worldwide. The show, “Azzedine Alaïa: The Couturier,” will run from May 10 to October 7. Read more about the exhibit on WWD.com #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @zefashioninsider)
@Pharrell and his wife Helen Lasichanh were among the stars that came out to celebrate @rimowa’s first pop-up concept shop. The space, which is located on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills, draws inspiration from airport luggage carousels and lounge areas – and features the company’s luggage and accessories. If the pop-up is successful it could pave the way for addition temporary shops throughout the world. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA)
@carineroitfeld celebrated @crfashionbook’s first calendar last night with a dinner party at Spring Place in Manhattan. Photographed by @stevenkleinstudio, the calendar takes on a fitness theme and features @joansmalls, @gigihadid, @danielle_herrington_ – pictured here – and more. “[Carine Roitfeld] wanted me to feel sexy and she wanted me to be myself and feel it out on my own and do what I felt was right,” said Herrington, aka Miss October. #wwdeye
@saintrecords and @virgilabloh last night at @americanexpress’ “A Night With Success Makers” event. “I always bring it back to community because without that I wouldn’t have the courage,” said Knowles when asked how she has gotten where she is now. Read more highlights from their conversation on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @lizdoupnik)
This Just In: Industry sources have told WWD that Anastasia Soare is rumored to be considering selling her beauty business, @anastasiabeverlyhills. According to those sources, Soare has tapped investment bank Imperial Capital to explore sale options for her eponymous beauty brand –– and with at least $340 million in net sales, this would be a big deal. Put in context of other recent transactions for makeup companies, Soare’s price tag could be in the billions if she were to sell the whole thing. #wwdnews #wwdbeauty (📷: @clint_spaulding)
@assouline’s latest book, “The Spirit of Bentley: Be Extraordinary” captures the adventurous attitudes and opulent lifestyles of @bentleymotors’ most creative owners and enthusiasts throughout the U.K. The 292-page hardcover has a section dedicated to showing its team of skilled artisans and photos of its most colorful owners, from George Bamford to designer @alicetemperley, pictured here by Aline Coquelle. #wwdeye
@google released its report on the most popular search terms this year. For fashion brands, the list was led by @gucci, the luxury brand that stunned the market last October when it pledged to stop using fur. Runner ups were @supremenewyork and @fashionnova, along with more established brands like @louisvuitton, @chanelofficial and @ysl. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)