NEW YORK — While the current hobo-peasant theme is all the rage, buyers at last week’s Intermezzo show said toned-down versions of similar trends will carry over into spring 2003.
As for emerging trends, many of the 515 vendors at Intermezzo — which took place Aug. 4-6 at Pier 92 in Manhattan — offered Fifties-inspired dresses with fitted bodices and flared skirts to the knee. Often in poplin and lightweight cotton, the dresses are simple, with fashion elements coming from necklines, colors and prints, rather than ruffles and trims.
While the show was busy and attracted around 7,000 retailers, vendors said many of the buyers were still looking for late fall merchandise, rather than resort and early spring, to which the show was geared.
"Some stores say they want to buy closer to the season, which is OK for us because we produce in New York and have a quick turnaround," said Elizabeth Perrin, sales director at Cynthia Steffe.
The desire to buy closer to season resulted in some clients only perusing the merchandise, with plans to send in orders later. Despite that, Perrin said she brought a small preview of the spring 2003 collection, so stores could start to edit what they were going to buy.
As for what did sell at the show, Perrin said embroidered pieces — a trend throughout the show, along with eyelet fabrics — like Steffe’s green printed-silk, embroidered skirt for $129 and knit jersey T-shirts with lace embroidered inserts for $79, sold well.
Kim Carter, Chaiken’s sales director, said the company has decided to attend Intermezzo on a regular basis from now on.
"We see stores that couldn’t make it down to the showroom, and they’re picking up holiday because they like what they’re seeing," Carter said.
Carter also said stores were restocking on current bestsellers, such as Chaiken’s stretch corduroy pants that can be worn into spring.
Lynne Raymond, who owns junior retailer Bala Girls, said she was on the lookout for black, which sells year-round in her Marion, Pa.-based store. Also on her list: leisurewear, such as Juicy Couture’s velour zip-up sweatsuits, bohemian skirts and tank tops."If I like it, I buy it," said Samantha Linn of specialty boutique Present Thyme.
Linn, who is a buyer at the Roanoke, Va.-based retailer, said she was on the lookout for basic items that were appealing to both the mothers and daughters that shop at her store. Michael Stars, Three Dots, Bisou Bisou and Betsey Johnson were her destinations, said Linn, adding that she was still focused on holiday and not yet looking at spring.
Los Angeles-based Joomi Joolz is going more vintage and less rock ’n’ roll with its signature graphic Ts. Currently, Fifties-esque pinup girls on their $33 stretch cotton Ts are top sellers, said Denise Gachpazany, sales associate at the Lily Kate showroom, which reps the line here.
Also feeling vintage was AG Adriano Goldschmied, where director of sales Jennifer Highman said buyers are tending to buy jeans with a larger flare, such as the line’s newest styles "The Legend."
"The Legend is still slim, but it has a wider flare, with no coin pocket, embroidered rivets and a curved back yoke, which is very flattering to a woman’s behind," she said.
Annelisa Gee of specialty retailer Mandarine, which owns stores in Newport, R.I., and Gustavia, St. Barths, said she’s stepping away from peasant-looking items and heading into looser tops in fabrics that evoke a men’s wear feel using shirtings like silk and linen.
"I haven’t found dresses," Gee said. "There’s too much ruffle. Saja, which is a new line for me, has a great choice of dresses though."
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)
The @cfda has shifted the dates of #NYFW, with Men’s showing on February 5 through February 7, and Women’s will directly follow, running from February 8 through 14. The preliminary schedule will be released on the CFDA’s web site in the next few days, but Mark Beckham, VP of marketing for the CFDA, revealed that @rafsimons will be back to close the men’s-specific part of the week with a show on February 7 #wwdfashion (📷: Kelly Taub)
@ferragamo is introducing a new space dedicated to the development of women’s and men’s leather good samples. The laboratory, which is created eco-friendly materials and designed to reduce the environmental impact of the manufacturing processes, will allow the company to expand its accessories offering through traditional artisanal approaches. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
How does a “regular, degular, schmegular” girl from the Bronx, N.Y., become a Grammy-nominated artist with a certified platinum record in less than a year? Call it the @iamcardib come up. The 25-year-old has become a musical sensation, and the fashion world is taking note. “If I could describe her style I would say drama. She’s really into the dramatics,” says Cardi B’s stylist @kollincarter. See how Carter styles her bold and out there looks with the link in bio. #wwdfashion
“There is no formula. There is no guideline. I can watch Ted Talks all day, but there is no one who can advise me on exactly what it is I should be doing,” said @ronniefieg, CEO of @kith, in an interview with WWD’s @ariahughes at the brand’s new SoHo office in Manhattan. Head to WWD.com to see how Fieg went from hanging out in shoe stockrooms at 13 to building his own business. #wwdfashion (📷: @weston.wells)
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion