NEW YORK — Lifestyle brands at the Atelier Designer Collections embraced the casual comfort aesthetic customarily found at the show, while a slew of international companies exhibited more avant-garde designs.
Atelier, which ran from Sept. 16 to 18 at the Double Tree Suites Hotel here, covered 85 collections, including Blanque, Treadle Design Room, Mashiah Arrive, Itemz, Caz/Jane Mohr Designs and Ahni & Co. There were 17 new exhibitors, including BNG and Genevieve Primavera, and 21 international collections from Japan, Canada, England, France, Belgium, Germany, Israel, Turkey and India, according to Susan Summa, the show's director.
"We have some very understated neutrals that are noncolors, but still have a mysterious quality like fog or mist, or a slight bit of blue or green. As usual, because this group is all about color, we've got color all over the place. We're seeing fewer greens and more in the pink and orange families," said Summa. "As always, we've got a black and white story. I can't ever remember a spring where we didn't have a black and white story, it just carries throughout the whole building. Most of our international designers have very little color, they are still very structured, very urban and you will see a lot more black and white stories from them, with maybe a little bit of pale taupe and gray."
Summa also cited dresses in shapes that tend to be more form-fitting and jackets in every fabric, including crinkled silk, painted materials, linens and brocades, as additional trends for spring. "We are seeing more body-conscious silhouettes and a lot of waists on the dresses and the jackets," she said.
BNG is a line from Istanbul that mixes its minimalist approach with pieces that are avant-garde, without losing the wearability factor. The bestseller in the line was a black, floor-sweeping taffeta kimono jacket, complete with a sash and exaggerated ruffle around the hemline, which also could be worn as a dress, wholesaling for $125. Other popular items were a black jersey dress with a leather belt and a cotton-metal blend trenchcoat with oversize mother-of-pearl buttons, wholesaling for $76 and $214, respectively. BNG is currently carried at Harari, with four locations, in Southern California and Arizona, Adelaide in Chicago and Two and Company in Port Arthur, Tex.
Hermès is launching a Laundromat pop-up shop in NYC - dubbed Hermèsmatic - where customers can bring their old scarves to be dip-dyed by an expert. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews (📷: @donstahl)