NEW YORK — Lifestyle brands at the Atelier Designer Collections embraced the casual comfort aesthetic customarily found at the show, while a slew of international companies exhibited more avant-garde designs.
Atelier, which ran from Sept. 16 to 18 at the Double Tree Suites Hotel here, covered 85 collections, including Blanque, Treadle Design Room, Mashiah Arrive, Itemz, Caz/Jane Mohr Designs and Ahni & Co. There were 17 new exhibitors, including BNG and Genevieve Primavera, and 21 international collections from Japan, Canada, England, France, Belgium, Germany, Israel, Turkey and India, according to Susan Summa, the show's director.
"We have some very understated neutrals that are noncolors, but still have a mysterious quality like fog or mist, or a slight bit of blue or green. As usual, because this group is all about color, we've got color all over the place. We're seeing fewer greens and more in the pink and orange families," said Summa. "As always, we've got a black and white story. I can't ever remember a spring where we didn't have a black and white story, it just carries throughout the whole building. Most of our international designers have very little color, they are still very structured, very urban and you will see a lot more black and white stories from them, with maybe a little bit of pale taupe and gray."
Summa also cited dresses in shapes that tend to be more form-fitting and jackets in every fabric, including crinkled silk, painted materials, linens and brocades, as additional trends for spring. "We are seeing more body-conscious silhouettes and a lot of waists on the dresses and the jackets," she said.
BNG is a line from Istanbul that mixes its minimalist approach with pieces that are avant-garde, without losing the wearability factor. The bestseller in the line was a black, floor-sweeping taffeta kimono jacket, complete with a sash and exaggerated ruffle around the hemline, which also could be worn as a dress, wholesaling for $125. Other popular items were a black jersey dress with a leather belt and a cotton-metal blend trenchcoat with oversize mother-of-pearl buttons, wholesaling for $76 and $214, respectively. BNG is currently carried at Harari, with four locations, in Southern California and Arizona, Adelaide in Chicago and Two and Company in Port Arthur, Tex.Carolyn and Dee Dugas, co-owners of Two and Company, are fans of BNG. "The collection sells to the piece, absolutely everything," said Carolyn Dugas. "Every single item that I picked is just great. I'm buying almost everything in the collection. Their leather, their organza, the silk taffeta is great. It's all wonderful."
Judith Mervine, owner of the Chesterton, Ind., store Glad Rags, said, "For spring, I bought a lot of chartreuse and black linen and an abundance of great white shirts. When you find one with a pointy collar that dips down so low, we screamed."
Mervine purchased pieces from Blanque, Itemz and Genevieve Primavera, the San Francisco-based line responsible for the creation of the aforementioned blouse.
Mary Elizabeth Primavera, designer of one-year-old brand Genevieve Primavera, compared her best-selling Executive blouse, which also doubles as a dress if paired with leggings or opaque tights, to wearing one's husband's or boyfriend's shirt. "You know that kind of sexy, woman's take on men's wear? Sleeves are also important to me, I love the exaggerated cuffs," she said. The shirt has an exaggerated pointed collar and wholesales for $74.
"The collar," said Primavera with a pause. "It's pilgrim-meets-the nightclubs."
At Treadle Design Room, tailored blazers and jackets were available in a multitude of updated styles and fabrics for spring. The best-selling spring pattern was inspired by a bold, floral watercolor painting, according to Sandra Remy and Rosemary Boldt, co-owners. The ivory-based floral print sold extremely well in both the Newport, a cropped little swing jacket that wholesales for $146, and the Trench, a three-button convertible collar coat with three-quarter-length sleeves that wholesales for $164, they said.
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye
"Nowadays when life is not so happy with everything going on in the world, I think people come to me for a little bit of whimsy and color and fun." - Designer Rebecca De Ravenel on her cult-favorite jewelry line. (📸 : @vsteves) #wwd40
“Everyone is talking about how the retail industry is struggling, but I think it’s an incredible time because brands who are doing something different and innovative are setting themselves up for the future,” said @adamgoldston, who founded the luxury athletic brand @apl with his brother @ryangoldsten. The Goldston’s are part of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables. See the rest of the list on WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
@eyeswoon blogger Athena Calderone debuted her first-ever cookbook, “Cook Beautiful,” which is heavily centered on the presentation and visual expression of food. Pictured here are her miso glazed carrots from the book. Get the recipe on WWD.com. (📷: @johnny_miller_) #wwdeye
“It’s passion that helps get anybody to a certain point and it’s what’s propelled me,” said Kith founder @ronniefieg, one of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables who are changing the face of retail, fashion and beauty. Fieg, who opened a Manhattan flagship on October 7, began his career at age 13 as a stock boy and salesman for footwear chain David Z. “I think staying true to [my] beliefs, hard work and passion have gotten me to where [Kith] is today.” See the rest of the 40 at WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
25-year-old @samweaving is about to break out this fall, starring in Netflix’s horror film “The Babysitter,” fittingly out today on Friday the 13th. That’s not the only place you’ll be seeing her, though — Weaving’s got a role Showtime’s “SMILF” and another alongside Frances McDormand and Woody Harrelson in “Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri.” Though she’s got a full plate at the moment, there’s one role she’s got her eye on: Marilyn Monroe. “I’m a little too young at the moment, but it’s on my bucket list,” the actress told WWD (📷: @dandoperalski) #wwdeye
BFF's Poppy Jamie and Suki Waterhouse celebrated the launch of their bag line Pop x Suki at Nordstrom last night. "The line is really about our friendship, and how we are so different but complement each other," said Waterhouse. 👯 (📷: Katie Jones) #wwdeye
After designing the new @louisvuitton and @bulgariofficial flagships and a @chanelofficial boutique opening in Japan, @petermarinoarchitect has another project on his plate: The Lobster Club. Located in the Seagram Building, it’s the famed architect’s first restaurant project in New York, serving up modern Japanese brasserie-style cuisine. Bronze hues, bespoke material detailing, blush and chartreuse tones and a heavy emphasis on Picasso can be seen throughout. Mark your calendars for Nov. 1 for the much-anticipated opening. (📷: @clint_spaulding) #wwdeye
Did you know: @carlychaikin of "Mr. Robot" has been painting for about a decade? The actress, who plays Darlene on the show, is a self-taught artist who lists Salvador Dalí and Chuck Close as some of her idols. Chaikin told WWD that painting is a form of meditation for her — A much-needed one given the intensity of "Mr. Robot." See a piece Chaikin is working on at WWD.com (📷: @jilliansollazzo) #wwdeye