Isabell de Hillerin works with traditional craftsmen in Moldova and Romania to produce fabrics for her subtly stitched garments. In her somber studio presentation, jackets with capes and drapes fell with a sculpted stiffness in black wool, sometimes touched with raised dark green embroidery. Silk gowns were modest but sexy, with back cutouts and revealing slits. Taupe and sea-foam green did little to lighten the mood, and while de Hillerin is fond of contrasting the rough with the refined for effect, some of her fabrics didn’t stand up to the scrutiny of a still-life presentation. Also, the fits and finishing on several garments made one wonder if this was intentional or incidental.
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