The most-viewed 2008 Paris spring collections on Style.com.
Deeming the spring collections "optimistic, colorful — and tempered with a modern edge," buyers praised a strong fashion week in the City of Light, "headlined by blockbuster shows from Lanvin, Balenciaga, Dries Van Noten and Nina Ricci," said WWD. In addition, retailers applauded the blend of inventiveness and commerciality from Stella McCartney, Rick Owens, Miu Miu and Alexander McQueen. In the ranking of Style.com's most-viewed Paris collections, Chanel retained its number-one standing from last season, John Galliano moved up five spots to number 8 and Miu Miu jumped seven spots to number 9. New to the list this season: Stella McCartney, at number 13, Sonia Rykiel, 17th, and Christian Lacroix, 19th. Page views for the top 20 shows in the first 12 days totaled 32.9 million.
1. CHANEL Page views: 2,940,480 "Welcome to Chanel, lifestyle brand to the rich and fabulous," WWD proclaimed. Karl Lagerfeld opened with a lineup of swimsuits, which he mixed and matched with oodles of denim. He sent out knee-length shorts, girlish jumpers, chic dresses and relaxed tweeds. Evening contained graceful black dresses.
2. LOUIS VUITTON Page views: 2,631,281 Showing under an enormous tent pitched in the Cour Carrée du Louvre, Marc Jacobs sent out a lineup of "mix-and-match, pile-it-on, see-through-it elements..." said WWD. Bags were a collaboration with Richard Prince, many of which were printed with Prince's interpretations of the Vuitton logo — washed, faded or painted over.
3. ALEXANDER MCQUEEN Page views: 2,442,778 Choosing to celebrate the life of fashion editor Isabella Blow, McQueen focused on high, dramatic glamour. Looks featured major shoulders, trussed waists, theatrical construction and a remarkable lineup of hats by Philip Treacy. At the end, he and Treacy, who were both mentored by Blow, took a bow together.
4. LANVIN Page views: 2,328,456 Alber Elbaz is definitely connecting with his audience these days. Everything he showed for spring was inventive, yet wearable — he sent out no-seam dresses and flyaway trenchcoats, and brightened up the collection with jewel-toned cocktail dresses. Elbaz went big for evening with high-impact, ruffle-edged dresses.5. VALENTINO Page views: 2,220,334 It was a savvy spring for Valentino, his last ready-to-wear show before he retires next year. "The Chic," as WWD dubbed him, worked with some of his favorite themes of the last 45 years, such as his signature Valentino red, white, polkadots, ruffles and suitings. Evening was also a hit with his shirred, draped gowns.
6. BALENCIAGA Page views: 2,193,980 Nicolas Ghesquière worked with mainly short dresses that molded into immovable curves, which included amplified, poufy shoulders and an abundance of wildly colorful florals — water lilies, anemones, daffodils, you name it. Variations included an exaggerated hourglass look, sometimes with demonstrative seaming.
7. CHRISTIAN DIOR Page views: 2,162,425 Following his extraordinary work surrounding Dior's 60th anniversary celebration, John Galliano showed a spring collection that "featured a scaled-back variation on last season's divine retro," said WWD. Galliano sent out dresses and suits with a Thirties-Forties vibe, a Fifties cocktail number and wild-kingdom lingerie.
8. JOHN GALLIANO Page views: 2,090,224 Choice of venue (a soccer stadium complex) aside, Galliano was "at his fanciful best" with his own collection, said WWD. He sent out looks from the early 1900s, including a pink jacket with tiered sleeves, sexy librarian sweaters, dresses full of ruffles and tiers, along with Forties-inspired black suits — he even offered a sampling of swimsuits.
9. MIU MIU Page views: 1,595,216 "It's all representations of life mixed with the idea of theater," said Miuccia Prada of the Miu Miu collection. She emulated the Playboy bunny, with her sheer, button-on cuffs and collars and busty tops, the French maid in white bibbed blouses and Lolita, with her white baby dolls and teetering stilettos.
10. CHLOE Page views: 1,564,634 Having listened to his critics from last season, Paulo Melim Andersson presented a much lighter, more charming and gentle collection for spring. He lost the ruffles of the past and instead worked with cuts, seams and inventive asymmetrics. The designer also showed tailored looks, jumpers, skirts and lengthy, cozy cardigans.11. YVES SAINT LAURENT Page views: 1,554,965 Stefano Pilati showed a spring full of shapely and languid dresses and smartly tailored jackets and pants, but the looks that featured the hyperarchitectural shoulders will be tough to pull off for YSL's ladies. Details were impressive in the jackets that carried the YSL logo, which was designed in 1963.
12. HERMES Page views: 1,224,180 Jean Paul Gaultier took Hermès on a passage to India, showing shimmery copper knits, silk safari styles and embroidered tunics. He featured classic prints on the house's signature scarves. "And it wouldn't be an Hermès India without a full lineup of turbaned, Birkin- and Kelly-toting beauties," added WWD.
13. STELLA MCCARTNEY Page views: 1,216,450 It was Stella McCartney's best collection to date, said WWD, in which she featured plenty of feminine, delicate looks. She showed flamboyant florals, but in earthy and muted tones. Her dresses were airy and full of ruffles, and her washed silks were beautiful in indigo blue. Safari prints and cocktail dresses were standouts.
14. DRIES VAN NOTEN Page views: 1,073,141 Dries Van Noten likes a good challenge. For spring, he wanted to push the envelope with patterns galore — many were floral, romantic and moody, but their graphic placement on the clothing was edgy. Van Noten sent out trenches, tops, shorts and all kinds of dresses, some knotted in front or falling to a V and tied in back.
15. JEAN PAUL GAULTIER Page views: 1,051,466 "The Pirates of the Caribbean" trilogy was in full force on Jean Paul Gaultier's runway — his gals carried real smoking pipes and toted umbrellas with pistol handles. And the clothes: Irish lace dresses; sharply tailored jackets, and nautical stripes on lace-up shirts and chiffon skirts. And then, a band of brides in crocheted dresses.
16. GIVENCHY Page views: 940,425 Riccardo Tisci sought to blur the lines between hard and soft for spring, playing notions of gentle femininity against the tough and masculine. He sent out languid baby-doll dresses, sharply tailored jackets, asymmetric blouses and skirts which featured knife pleats arranged in stiff ruffles.17. SONIA RYKIEL Page views: 929,954 "It's hard not to get caught up in the high-energy, giddy spirit of a Sonia Rykiel show," mused WWD. Her models, adorned in cheeky knits and airy goddess gowns, came flying down the catwalk, high-fiving one another or skipping and twirling. Swimwear and accessories were plentiful and charming.
VIKTOR & ROLF Page views: 928,596 It was all about the clothes and not the concept for Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren this season. They worked with plenty of white, like with a drawstring dress, a shift, a stiff coat and a four-tier trench. Evening gowns were vibrant — and fabulously embellished. It all made for a beautifully wistful collection, according to WWD.
19. CHRISTIAN LACROIX Page views: 924,520 Christian Lacroix struck a nice balance of low-key-meets-exuberance, with his pencil skirts and sedate belted tops, versus his vibrant prints and diaphanous gowns. He even threw in some glam-gal swimwear, some detailed with faux pythons, others with African beading. His lineup of little black dresses were terrific.
20. VIVIENNE WESTWOOD Page views: 844,349 Vivienne Westwood showed subtle variations on past creations, which included a fair share of her signature disheveled dresses, high-waisted pants and bias-cut assembled evening offerings. Some newer elements included her short sequined dress and pink gym shorts paired with a bustier.
Breaking: @cushnieetochs’ co-founders @carlycushnie and @ochsmichelle are parting ways. After a 10-year run, Ochs is leaving the brand. Get the full story on WWD.com – link in bio. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
@maybelline’s Kanako Takase had snow bunnies in mind when creating the beauty look for @philipppleininternational. Playing off of the bedazzled snowboards in the collection, Takase mixed two highlighters together for a luminous sheen. #wwdbeauty #nyfw (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
“There’s a huge gap between the old way of doing things and today. It takes the youth to help evolve that. You have to count on the kids today to help lead you into the future. A lot of these retailers are stuck in the past. Communication is the biggest thing,” said @ronniefieg of @kith on the youth’s role in retail. On Monday night, Jeff Staple moderated a keynote session with Fieg and @syresmith at Assembly - a series of workshops, talks and keynotes addressing topics or issues in the apparel industry. Head to WWD.com to read more advice from Fieg and what Smith thinks of his dad @willsmith’s Instagram account and sustainability (📷: @weston.wells)
@joansmalls closed the @michaelkors fall 2018 show in black sequined pants and a varsity T printed with 19 on the front and 81 on the back. 1981 – the year Kors went into business. #wwdfashion #nfyw (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
“You think your life is going to be a certain way, and nothing you thought would happen ends up happening. Never in my wildest dreams did I think I’d be designing clothes and working with Mickey Drexler, and building something I’m deeply proud of,” said Jenna Lyons. Nine months after leaving @jcrew, Lyons is exploring the meaning of happiness. Read the interview, where Lyons talks about reinvention and more on WWD.com – link in bio. #wwdfashion (📷: Farrell) #jennalyons #jcrew