MILAN – When referring to the short-lived marriage between Lars Nilsson and the house of Ferré, IT Holding chief Tonino Perna believes that in the case of divorce, it’s always better when children aren’t involved.
The children in this case would have been the fall clothes that would have earmarked Nilsson’s debut at Ferré on Feb. 18. Needless to say, the buzz was mounting.
“It was an unpleasant decision to take, also because I respect Nilsson, he is a nice and professional person. It’s no one’s fault but the relationship didn’t work out and we thought it would be better to interrupt it before the show,” said Perna, IT Holding chairman, in a phone interview.
He stressed that the premature interruption was part of the contract and didn’t indent IT Holding’s costs.
When problems started arousing at some unspecified time, Perna asked the in-house design team to clean the slate and to deliver fall runway looks that were a contemporary rendition of the Ferré style codes.
“What we learned when Ferré passed away was that the designer not only left us with a great brand but he had also trained a very seasoned and capable design team,” said Perna. He added that retailers still have a lot faith in the brand and feedback thus far has been positive.
According to sources, Nilsson instead, not only steered away from Ferrè’s aesthetic but the Swede didn’t bond with the teams, especially with the men’s wear one that was hostile to him.
Nilsson, in fact, found the team in place when he arrived and needed time to adjust to a staff that had worked side by side with Ferré for years. Nilsson was unreachable to comment
Yet another source described Nilsson’s debut approach as “very Italian: chic and saleable.” During a men’s wear preview in January, Nilsson conceded that he wanted to recast a men’s wear perennial— Prince-of-Wales— with a women’s bent.
Going forward, Perna said that a creative director role is in the cards. “A creative director today must have managerial skills in guiding a team and must also understand the market direction and the consumer’s needs, especially when you have different lines and a wide product range. It’s not easy to find someone with all these requisites,” said Perna.
Aside from Ferré main line, the house also produces the Ferré Milano diffusion line and the younger GF Ferré label.
According to one source, Nilsson did not take advantage of the teamwork approach that would have taken some weight off his shoulders. Many in fact agreed that the Swedish designer had quite a lot on his plate but his diffidence probably led him to misjudge his workload.
“It’s always hard to replace a designer who has poured his heart and soul for decades to build a fashion brand. Whomever follows needs to be able to coordinate a good team,” said a source familiar with the house.
Most people confirmed that IT Holding company went to great lengths to supply Nilsson with all the support he needed and in working day and night to craft the clothes for Monday’s shows.
Taking the final spot on the mens’ portion of New York Fashion Week calendar next month will be none other than @tomford. Though he’s shown his men’s wear in New York in the past, this will mark the first time the designer has shown his men’s collection alone during New York Fashion Week: Men’s. His runway show will debut on February 6 at the Park Avenue Armory. #wwdfashion
London-based couture house @ralphandrusso has certainly been in the spotlight, having its dresses worn by @beyonce, Angelina Jolie, Meghan Markle in her engagement photos and more. For couture, Tamara Ralph focused on ornamentation — think: feathers with chain mail, jet embroidery and clusters of pearls and crystals. See the rest of the collection on WWD.com #wwdfashion #couture (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
Minnie Mouse celebrated her 90th birthday by getting her own star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame. For her celebratory luncheon, @coach’s creative director @stuartvevers dressed her in a custom made prairie dress, complete with Vever’s take on the polka dot – black sequined versions – under a cropped motorcycle jacket. The designer also put his own mark on Minnie’s classic red shoes, infusing the color with sparkles and adding some Coach crystals. “We chose colors that were very Minnie and also represented quintessential Coach elements,” said Vevers. #wwdfashion #nationalpolkadotday (📷: George Chinsee)
@nickjonas is unveiling his first-ever apparel collection through a partnership with John Varvatos. The limited-edition capsule, which makes its debut in spring, also marks the first time the designer has collaborated with anyone on a line. “The process in working with Nick is amazing. It’s inspiring to be around someone who is not only connected with the trade that they do, but also with what’s happening in the environment around him, and how that connects to what we do with style,” said Varvatos. (RG: @johnvarvatos) #wwdfashion
@margotrobbie steps out onto the red carpet wearing @miumiu. The actress is nominated for “Outstanding Performance by a Female Actor in a Leading Role” in “I, Tonya” at the #SagAwards. (📷: Stewart Cook) #wwdfashion
For @massimogiorgetti of @msgm, the Nineties are his favorite decade. “They had a huge impact on my personal growth. What I like of the Nineties is that they are not so precise in terms of style as other decades…there was actually a bit of everything,” he said. As seen on MSGM’s Spring 2018 show: tie-dye and a bit of grunge, two styles that are synonymous with the decade #wwdfashion #wwddecades (📷: @kukukuba)