BERLIN — Spring-summer 2006 got off to a quiet start in Germany as trade fairs in Berlin and Düsseldorf attracted fewer visitors than last year, especially from abroad.
For the first time, a scheduling conflict created an overlap between Bread & Butter and the Premium shows here, which were held from July 22 to 24, and the CPD trade fair in Düsseldorf, held July 24 to 26. The marathon might have been a plus for foreign buyers wanting to shop both cities in one long weekend, but many buyers skipped Germany entirely, joining the 45,000 who opted to attend Bread & Butter's Barcelona debut early in July.
The success of Barcelona cast a shadow over Berlin this season, stealing much of the hype and traffic. Bread & Butter Berlin clocked in 26,000 trade visitors (compared with 34,000 last July), 60 percent of whom came from Germany, compared with 49 percent a year before. Premium reported 12,000 visitors, compared with 12,500 the previous year, and a 50-50 domestic-foreign breakdown, though many exhibitors still complained of light traffic. So did participants at CPD in Düsseldorf, where attendance was placed at 44,000, down from 48,000 in August 2004, and 55,000 in summer 2003.
Nevertheless, even if "Berlin has lost some of the glamour," as Bread & Butter chief Karl-Heinz Müller acknowledged, exhibitors showing at the key Berlin venues underscored the importance of the German market for their business. And, as Müller noted, "We were told by the majority they could work quietly at last."
"The serious people are here," commented Tessa Koops, creative director of Daite, a Dutch novelty coats range that showed at Milk & Honey, the fledgling women's-only fashion sector at Bread & Butter. "Business has been OK. More people would have been better for the atmosphere, and there aren't as many people hanging outside, because the weather is bad. But the overall vibe is still positive," she said.
Daite's decorative coats featuring embroidery on cotton twill, batik or retro-tourist prints, rhinestone buttons on gold and a lot of inner detailing reflected one of the show's two main women's wear trends: feminine, flirtatious, colorful and highly detailed looks with luxurious accents.
“I see things on the hanger and I’m, like, ‘I never knew that color worked on me.’ It’s things you necessarily wouldn’t choose to wear, but once you put them on, you see why Janie is who Janie is." — Lily Collins on working with former "Mad Men" costume designer, Janie Bryant on creating looks for her role as Celia Brady's in Amazon series, "The Last Tycoon." 📸@jilliansollazzo #wwdeye
EXCLUSIVE: Sarah Rutson has been tapped to Build New American Fashion Group. The parent of Joie, Equipment and Current/Elliott hired the merchant to rev up its brands and expand its portfolio into designer, beauty and lifestyle categories. Read more on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion
Michael Kors' $1.3B Jimmy Choo deal has the company squaring off with Coach Inc. as both seek to build American powerhouses. Coach bought Stuart Weitzman in 2015 and Kate Spade just two weeks ago, but Michael Kors' acquisition may be putting pressure on its rival in the new push for scale. #wwdnews (📷: George Chinsee)
Meet actress Lucy Boynton, who plays opposite Naomi Watts in the recently released Netflix series "Gypsy." Boynton stopped by WWD to talk about her upcoming projects and her nomadic lifestyle. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)