The resort dilemma: cough up the bucks for a real show, or present no frills in the showroom? More and more designers are swinging toward the former option.
As we see it, that makes perfect sense — with a caveat. Though the season's traditional reality quotient is largely revered, any fashion show should be a little, well, showy. On Monday, Oscar de la Renta found a delightful balance between slick and low-key, even if he did go on a bit long. (Note to all designers: In terms of showing, it's still an interim season. How about capping off at 40 looks?) De la Renta booked the ever-so-convenient 583 Park Avenue, which formerly housed a Christian Science church. There he installed a grand ellipse of a runway for a delightful lineup that ranged from soigné nauticals to beachy ballgowns, a soupçon of retro apparent less in the clothes than in the models' upswept coiffures and auras of pretty serenity. And ever Senor Suave, de la Renta came up with a chic solution to the challenges of a truncated front row: seat the wife and daughter in row three.
Tedious pacing made Luca Orlandi's Luca Luca show seem twice as long as it was. But the clothes were often appealing, a few well-controlled frills mixed in with jaunty constructed shapes finished with architectural flourishes.
Zac Posen opted for a series of ultracasual mini shows at his Laight Street headquarters. Though his muse du jour is Bonnie Parker (à la "Bonnie and Clyde"), Posen wisely limited overt homage to jaunty berets and some charming body-conscious knits. Of course, this designer has always veered toward the lean, mean and sexy, which no doubt drew him to Ms. Parker in the first place. The collection, he said, "is all a little bit dangerous."
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast