NEW YORK — Jacomo, a 31-year-old fragrance brand that enjoyed its heyday in the late Seventies and early Eighties, is striving for revitalization by spiffing up its look and launching a new scent.
The Mission: Using the Tax Free World Exhibition in Cannes, France (see story on page 4) as a platform on Tuesday, Jacomo Paris launched Jacomo de Jacomo Rouge, a new men’s scent, and a new-look version of its Jacomo de Jacomo men’s fragrance, which originally launched in 1980.
"It was necessary to modernize Jacomo de Jacomo," said Fred d’Hallewin, vice president of Jacomo Paris Inc., the company’s New York-based affiliate. "We think after 20 years it’s useful to have a new design." Only the juice, created by Christian Matthieu at International Flavors and Fragrances, remains the same. The in-house development team at Laboratoires Sarbec, parent of Jacomo Paris, designed the new packaging — a black rectangular bottle and a push-button "glide-open" cap, which is identical for Rouge.
The Goal: The two scents begin rolling out to Europe this week, with the Middle East and South America to follow. Highlights of the European campaign include 800 doors in France, as well as points of sale in Jacomo’s major markets like Italy, Spain, Holland and Belgium, according to d’Hallewin, who oversees worldwide exports.
U.S. rollout plans call for an initial launch in Nordstrom and Henri Bendel at yearend. The goal is to follow that launch with a rapid U.S. expansion to 600 yet-to-be-determined doors that d’Hallewin says will be "secondary market." Within the first year after launch, d’Hallewin expects U.S. distribution to reach more than 1,000 doors.
D’Hallewin wouldn’t talk numbers, but industry sources estimate both scents could combine for wholesale sales of $15 million worldwide in their first year. Rouge is seen accounting for 15 percent of first-year sales, according to sources.
The Creation: Dragoco’s Bernard Ellena created the juice for Rouge, which comes in 50-ml. ($36) and 100-ml. ($51) versions. The scent contains top notes of cardamom and green mint, a heart of cedar and sandalwood and a base of tonka bean and patchouli. The Rouge collection, which targets 20- to 35-year-old men — a younger group than Jacomo has previously addressed — also includes a 200-ml. body shampoo for $20 and an aftershave balm (100-ml.) and deodorant, both for $18.The Message: Advertising has not been planned, but a worldwide sampling campaign will support the two scents at retail.
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast