NEW YORK — The Estée Lauder Cos. is giving its teen brand Jane another fresh start.

Under a new management team, the young Jane will sport a new look starting this spring and will also unveil a revised advertising campaign.

It was only in 2001 that Jane switched from its signature pink-and-black fixtures to a carded package at the behest of mass retailers. But the color-coded packaging, featuring pink, aqua and purple, did not stand out sufficiently on the wall. The revised cards will maintain the flavor of the earlier version but with more white space, which brightens up the display. The Jane logo also has been slightly tweaked. Additionally, lipsticks are being taken off cards and put in racks, so the shades can stand out. And prices, which range from $2 to $5, will appear on shelf tags "to make a value statement," said Jane marketers.

Todd First, general manager of Jane, who succeeded Sandy Cataldo when she joined Bath & Body Works last summer, noted that even without the enhancements, Jane has started to spring back after losing its footing last year. According to Information Resources Inc., retail sales of Jane slid 23.8 percent to $21.5 million, which does not include Wal-Mart, the brand’s largest retailer.

First expects Jane to have a strong 2003 with retail sales gains in the double digits. Jane fills a necessary void in the market as a brand that appeals directly to young women and also as a stepping stone for consumers moving from budget lines to more expensive brands and from younger lines like Bonne Bell to more mature lines like Cover Girl or L’Oréal.

"Jane was originally a youthful brand and a value brand. And that’s exactly what it should be," said First, who insists Jane will have an enduring presence. "We have a parent company that stays behind us. We are going to stay in the business."

Sarah Kugelman, vice president of marketing at Jane, said the brand’s marketing plans "harken back to where the brand started." Jane, which has refocused on the 16-to-24-year-old segment, is about fun. At its essence, Jane stands for feeling good on the inside and the outside and encourages young women "to be the best you can be," said Kugelman, who founded, now owned by Lauder. This spirit is exhibited in a new Jane tag line: "Some Girls Have All the Fun."Jane execs say they are putting more of Lauder’s R&D muscle into its product development. "There will be more targeted product launches," remarked Kugelman. While Jane’s products are fun, they also offer technological innovation, she said.

New items for spring include Lucky Star, a glitter lipstick that is mildly scented and flavored, and High Fiber mascara, which is said to be a first in the mass market.

Jane’s director of product development, Shaunda Swackhamer, said Lucky Star is made of a gel and wax base blend, which provides both clarity and a good color payoff. "It is vibrant and textural like you would normally see in a gloss," said Swackhamer. The final result is described as medium sheer.

To achieve the glitter effect, the formula contains three different sized pearls. It also has a patented lipid complex to draw moisture to the lips and provide a comfort factor. Lucky Star is offered in 10 shades and the lip color introduces a new package — a silver tube with clear cap and base.

Lucky Star will be sampled in the pages of Cosmo Girl, the first such sampling effort since the introduction of MegaBites lipstick in 1999. Additionally Cosmo Girl will carry Jane booklets — essentially providing an encyclopedic view of the brand. There also will be a coupon insert in YM magazine, a promotion vehicle Jane has not used before.

High Fiber, said to deliver longer and thicker lashes, is Jane’s second mascara. The other is Fan Club, a curling item. High Fiber borrows a concept from double-ended mascaras, but refines it into one formula. Dual-ended items usually feature a building formula on one side and a color coat on the other. In High Fiber, the formula contains nylon fibers for bulking up lashes and color together. The mascara comes in four shades: basic black, soft black, Just Chill and Purplex. The brush is designed to pull lashes apart and the color keeps them apart, said Swackhamer.

"Jane is the first and only brand to launch a fiber and color all-in-one system," noted Swackhamer. Jane is also adding six shades to Double Talk, its long-wearing lip color.Meanwhile, the brand is partnering with the Shine [Seeking Harmony in Neighborhoods Everyday] organization. Through Shine, Jane will fund a Challenge Grant program that will issue grants to teens to develop community programs. A Jane retailer may also partner in the event. Details are still being finalized.

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