PARIS — Jean Paul Gaultier keeps gender-bending and revisiting past icons — most recently with his new fragrance, called Fleur du Male, due out this spring.
The scent breaks conventional codes of men's scent. Most radical is its juice, containing notes of white, orange blossom flowers instead of geranium and lavender, staples in a traditional fougère men's fragrance. Second, Fleur du Male's bottle is completely white — a rarity for the fragrance industry, particularly in a marketplace awash with black fragrance flacons for men.
Created with Gaultier's beauty-license holder Beauté Prestige International, Fleur du Male comes more than a decade after the 1995 launch of perennial bestseller Le Male (a fougère) and less than a year following Gaultier to the Power of Two scent (with notes of ambergris, musk and vanilla) for men and women. Gaultier's Tout Beau Tout Propre makeup line for men was introduced in fall 2003.
"Jean Paul firmly believed that he should say something new about men," said Remy Gomez, president of BPI.
"Over the past 12 years, many barriers have been lifted for men," continued Lea Vignal-Kenedi, head of the fragrance division for Jean Paul Gaultier, referring to men's ability to more easily express themselves through fashion and beauty, for instance. "He wanted to speak of this blooming of today's masculinity, of joie de vivre, of happiness."
Although company executives would not discuss sales projections, industry sources said they expected Fleur du Male would generate $26 million at wholesale in its first 12 months.
Its "revisited fern accord," with notes of petigrain leaf and coumarin, was created by Takasago's Francis Kurkdjian, also Le Male's perfumer. For Fleur du Male, he used a healthy dose of orange flower notes, generally found in women's fragrances and in colognes. BPI claims it to be the first time orange flower has been used in a men's scent.
"There is a new dimension to the Jean Paul Gaultier man," said Kurkdjian.
"Orange flower is an ingredient that sticks in the memory more easily than most other top notes available," continued Gomez, who explained the white flowers are historically used in crowns for French brides, for instance.Added Kurkdjian, orange flower scent also evokes memories of childhood and innocence. "It is a flower Jean Paul adores," he said.
So, too, was Gaultier intent on giving a nod to Le Male's iconic bottle, which comes in the form of a bust. However, the Fleur du Male flacon is of white porcelain. "Jean Paul wanted the bust to be the emblem of his statement," explained Gomez.
Cultural references abound in the new project. Take the scent's name, which is a word play on "La Fleur du Mal," a book of poetry by Charles Baudelaire. Then there is the advertising visual.
Gaultier adores movies, explained Vignal-Kenedi. She said that for Fleur du Male, he had in his mind the image from the film "American Beauty," in which actress Mena Suvari soaks in a bath full of roses. So, he signed photographer Jean-Baptiste Mondino to shoot model Andres Valencoso in a milky bath chockablock with white flowers. Print visuals will appear as single pages. "He wanted to show a happy man, like a pasha, something as simple, with a certain pleasure," she said. Sampling will include Sophisticates, among other formats.
Fleur du Male is to be sold exclusively in Jean Paul Gaultier boutiques starting in March. It will be rolled out in worldwide distribution beginning in April.
The 125-ml. eau de toilette spray will retail for 69 euros, or $91 at current exchange rates; the 75-ml. size, for 51 euros, or $67; the 40-ml. limited-edition eau de toilette spray, for 39 euros, or $51, and the 75-g. stick deodorant, for 22 euros, or $29.
Breaking News: @louisvuitton's men's artistic director @mrkimjones is leaving the French fashion house after nearly 7 years. Jones joined Louis Vuitton in 2011, following a three year tenure as creative director of British luxury goods brand Alfred Dunhill. Jones is to exit Louis Vuitton after showing his fall 2018 collection for the brand in Paris on Thursday. Read the full exclusive story on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
For men’s fall 2018, @giuseppezanotti drew on elements from streetwear, sport, biker, combat and rock ‘n’ roll. Pictured here are a pair of shoes from the collection, featuring zippers, rhinestones, and silver hardware. Head to WWD.com to see a roundup of the accessories from Milan’s men’s fall 2018 shows. #wwdfashion (📷: Andrea Delb)
To celebrate the 25th anniversary of @ralphlauren’s snowboarding collection, the brand is mining its archives. The iconic brand is reintroducing vintage styles and dropping new designs for a color capsule that will be available in Ralph Lauren stores and @openingceremony on January 25. The capsule will consist of 10 pieces, including the Snow Beach Pullover, pictured here, which is a collector’s item that rapper Raekwon wore in Wu-Tang Clan’s “Can It Be All So Simple” video. #wwdfashion (📷: Tom Gould)
For @rochasofficial’s pre-fall 2018 collection, creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua channeled the sophisticated and intriguing Catherine Denevue in the film “Belle de Jour.” Polished collarless coats, midi skirts, suits and ’60s graphic motifs were all featured in the collection, adding a sense of discreet luxury. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion
“We tried to produce clothing of that couture quality, but the most daunting part was that we only had a matter of days [to do it],” said costume designer Lou Eyrich, who recreated Gianni Versace’s iconic looks for @americancrimestoryfx. Eyrich searched online retailers and vintage shops for original pieces from the design house and for @penelopecruzoficial, who plays Donatella Versace. Head to WWD.com to read how she created the Versace world. #wwdfashion
Only three months after her stellar debut catwalk season, @kaiagerber has inked her first big design collaboration –– with @karllagerfeld. The collection blends Lagerfeld’s Parisian chic aesthetic and the model’s signature West Coast casual style via RTW, accessories, footwear and more. The #KarlLagerfeldxKaia collection will launch in September with a series of events. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
Harrods plans to remove the famous statue of Princess Diana and Dodi Al Fayed from the bottom of the Egyptian escalators and hand it back to Mohamed Al-Fayed. “We are very proud to have played our role in celebrating the lives of Diana, Princess of Wales and Dodi Al Fayed at Harrods and to have welcomed people from around the world to visit the memorial for the past 20 years,” said Michael Ward, Harrods managing director. “With the announcement of the new official memorial statue to Diana, Princess of Wales at Kensington Palace, we feel that the time is right to return this memorial to Mr. Al Fayed and for the public to be invited to pay their respects at the palace.” More on the news, with reporting by @loreleimarfil, at WWD.com. #wwdnews