PARIS — Jean Paul Gaultier keeps gender-bending and revisiting past icons — most recently with his new fragrance, called Fleur du Male, due out this spring.
The scent breaks conventional codes of men's scent. Most radical is its juice, containing notes of white, orange blossom flowers instead of geranium and lavender, staples in a traditional fougère men's fragrance. Second, Fleur du Male's bottle is completely white — a rarity for the fragrance industry, particularly in a marketplace awash with black fragrance flacons for men.
Created with Gaultier's beauty-license holder Beauté Prestige International, Fleur du Male comes more than a decade after the 1995 launch of perennial bestseller Le Male (a fougère) and less than a year following Gaultier to the Power of Two scent (with notes of ambergris, musk and vanilla) for men and women. Gaultier's Tout Beau Tout Propre makeup line for men was introduced in fall 2003.
"Jean Paul firmly believed that he should say something new about men," said Remy Gomez, president of BPI.
"Over the past 12 years, many barriers have been lifted for men," continued Lea Vignal-Kenedi, head of the fragrance division for Jean Paul Gaultier, referring to men's ability to more easily express themselves through fashion and beauty, for instance. "He wanted to speak of this blooming of today's masculinity, of joie de vivre, of happiness."
Although company executives would not discuss sales projections, industry sources said they expected Fleur du Male would generate $26 million at wholesale in its first 12 months.
Its "revisited fern accord," with notes of petigrain leaf and coumarin, was created by Takasago's Francis Kurkdjian, also Le Male's perfumer. For Fleur du Male, he used a healthy dose of orange flower notes, generally found in women's fragrances and in colognes. BPI claims it to be the first time orange flower has been used in a men's scent.
"There is a new dimension to the Jean Paul Gaultier man," said Kurkdjian.
"Orange flower is an ingredient that sticks in the memory more easily than most other top notes available," continued Gomez, who explained the white flowers are historically used in crowns for French brides, for instance.Added Kurkdjian, orange flower scent also evokes memories of childhood and innocence. "It is a flower Jean Paul adores," he said.
So, too, was Gaultier intent on giving a nod to Le Male's iconic bottle, which comes in the form of a bust. However, the Fleur du Male flacon is of white porcelain. "Jean Paul wanted the bust to be the emblem of his statement," explained Gomez.
Cultural references abound in the new project. Take the scent's name, which is a word play on "La Fleur du Mal," a book of poetry by Charles Baudelaire. Then there is the advertising visual.
Gaultier adores movies, explained Vignal-Kenedi. She said that for Fleur du Male, he had in his mind the image from the film "American Beauty," in which actress Mena Suvari soaks in a bath full of roses. So, he signed photographer Jean-Baptiste Mondino to shoot model Andres Valencoso in a milky bath chockablock with white flowers. Print visuals will appear as single pages. "He wanted to show a happy man, like a pasha, something as simple, with a certain pleasure," she said. Sampling will include Sophisticates, among other formats.
Fleur du Male is to be sold exclusively in Jean Paul Gaultier boutiques starting in March. It will be rolled out in worldwide distribution beginning in April.
The 125-ml. eau de toilette spray will retail for 69 euros, or $91 at current exchange rates; the 75-ml. size, for 51 euros, or $67; the 40-ml. limited-edition eau de toilette spray, for 39 euros, or $51, and the 75-g. stick deodorant, for 22 euros, or $29.
There'll be no rest for those headed to Europe for men's, as Paris just closed the gap with Milan. According to a provisional calendar released by the Chambre Syndicale, Paris Men's Week will now open a day earlier on January 16. See new highlights on the official lineup on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
BREAKING: Jonathan Saunders is leaving @DVF. The designer has resigned from his position as chief creative officer of Diane von Furstenberg, the company said in a statement on Friday. At the time of his hire, von Furstenberg said Saunders’ arrival symbolized and facilitated her stepping back from the day-to-day duties that occupy the work of a full-time creative director. The British designer joined DVF in May 2016 and was in charge of all product categories. #wwdnews
For @versace_official’s spring ad campaign, the brand emphasized the archival prints from the spring tribute collection dedicated to the late Gianni Versace. Closing out the show were five of Gianni’s favorite models: Cindy, Naomi, Carla, Helena, and Claudia. Bowing on December 18, the new campaign is yet another tribute to supermodel-dom as the images by Steven Meisel are fronted by @iamnaomicampbell, @cturlington, @gisele and more. #wwdfashion
Four-time Oscar-nominated actress Annette Bening has been waiting 20 years to play Gloria Graham in "Film Stars Don't Die in Liverpool," which will be released on December 29. The movie about Graham – a Hollywood star known for her controversial relationship with a younger Englishman named Peter Turner – is based off a memoir Turned wrote. "She felt vulnerable to him, because she loved him, she really did love him. And anyone that we really truly are in love with, we re vulnerable to in a very deep way," said Bening. Read our full interview with the modern icon of an actress on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @ninebagatelles; Styled by @cristinaehrlich)
The crisp white button down: a staple that can be dressed up or down and accessorized throughout the decades. Here, on a Art Basel-goer in 2017 on the left and on the iconic Audrey Hepburn in “Roman Holiday” in 1953 on the right. #tbt #wwdfashion (📷: Andrew Morales)
Known for her work with @victoriassecret, 25-year-old model @georgiafowler is raising her profile in Hollywood. Fowler stars in @vincecamuto’s holiday campaign, which launched in partnership with “Pitch Perfect 3.” “Almost every shoot with Vince Camuto, I’ve had to face a fear…It was definitely a challenge. I’m so grateful for it, though. I’ve always wanted to be a pop star, so that was the perfect chance,” Fowler said. Head to WWD.com to read about Fowler’s experience modeling, including at the #VSFashionShow, and her relationship with Nick Jonas. #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
EXCLUSIVE: Huda Kattan just became the first beauty influencer to land a major beauty deal. Kattan's business, @hudabeauty, has received a minority investment from private equity firm TSG Consumer Partners. The brand, which industry sources say is on track to do $200 million in retail sales for 2017, will receive support on product, retail and geographic expansion through the deal. Get all the details on the deal and read @_a_collins' interview with Kattan on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdbeauty #wwdnews
Peruvian model @juanaburga_official – who is known for walking the runways of @rodarte, @viviennewestwood and @torybuch – is making the move to the big screen with drama “Los Últimos.” The film premiered in Argentina in November and arrives in the U.S. and Europe in 2018. On making the switch from modeling to acting, Burga told WWD: “It’s a completely different thing – a lot of people think it’s similar or try to connect things, especially like getting used to the camera or being looked at all the time or playing these different characrers, but film is a completely different story.” #wwdeye (📷: @jgreenery)
London’s newly opened @designmuseum will look back on the life and work of Azzedine Alaïa in a show that the designer helped to curate before he died of heart failure last month. The retrospective, which Alaïa had worked on with Mark Wilson, chief curator of the @groningermuseum, will look at the impact of his work worldwide. The show, “Azzedine Alaïa: The Couturier,” will run from May 10 to October 7. Read more about the exhibit on WWD.com #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @zefashioninsider)