By  on April 11, 1994

MIAMI -- Retailers at the second edition of the International Jeanswear show here were looking mostly for trends, such as overalls, athletic stripe looks and loose, lighter-weight cargo pants for fall, as well as a return to the tighter fit in five-pocket jeans.

Exhibitors had praise for the organization, display and vendor list but said they needed to see more buyers to make the show a success.

Some big names did walk the show, which ended its three-day run at the Miami Beach Convention Sunday. Buyers from Barneys New York, Ann Taylor, Merry-Go-Round Enterprises, Eaton's and Burdines plied the aisles full of reproductions of rustic country stores and gritty urban graffiti-sprayed walls.

On Friday afternoon, MGR chairman and chief executive officer Leonard Weinglass was meeting with a team of buyers in the 2,100-square-foot Replay booth.

At Replay, Weinglass and his Cignal team looked at long printed rayon dresses and wool sweaters with patchwork detailing.

"Can you give me 6,000 of these?" said William T. Kolber, vice president of sourcing and merchandising for MGR.

"No, because everything in this booth is closed," said a Replay sales executive.

"I think this is a great show, and I'll definitely be back next season," said Weinglass. Although he declined to talk about trends or business, he and a Merry-Go-Round buyer were discussing pending shipments of carpenter pants to 40 stores.

Izzy Ezrailson and Wendy Red, owners of Up Against the Wall and Commander Salamander, several stores in the Washington, D.C., area were shopping the show for the second time.

Red, who buys the women's lines, said she loved the show and had written 25 orders so far. She said she was working on her summer deliveries with her regular accounts.

As for trends, Red pointed out "denim skirts and dresses and drawstring pants in a lightweight denim" as important. Red believes layering, such as a T-shirt under a woven shirt under a vest will be a key trend for fall.

She said her open to buy was "up a little bit" and business is starting to pick up in the junior areas."Anything linen, wrapped skirts, shorts and cropped tops are selling," she said. "I told Izzy, 'Forget the men's business; women's is taking over."'

Ron Herman, owner of Fred Segal Melrose and Ron Herman Brentwood, two specialty stores in the Los Angeles area, was with his A. Gold E. line.

He said he particularly liked the mix of European and American vendors at the show, even though he had already written a lot of his fall business.

Herman said his open-to-buy was up from last year, although he declined to say by how much. He said he would definitely do some buying at the show.

For trends, Herman said he sees women becoming increasingly frustrated with the basic five-pocket style because that category has become so price-driven.

"What women will be looking for is what's unique in fabric, finish and specific details." He said soft fabrics using Tencel, denim with a rib weave, and corduroy will be key for fall.

Christian Lorey, a buyer for three stores in Atlanta -- two boutiques under the name Bill Hallman and one called Urban Instincts -- said he was shopping the show looking for the next version of the athletic-stripe look.

"That look is definitely continuing," he said. "Where I'm from, the kids are spending a lot of time on the streets, going from school to gym or out at night, so they need clothes that are very functional."

Lorey said he was "definitely buying some denim" at the show, and was on the lookout for new silhouettes such as dresses in various weights of denim from chambray to 14-ounce, cropped denim jackets and overalls in both short and long styles. He said his open-to-buy was up slightly.

Bobby Garnett, owner of two stores in Boston called Shutters, said he was looking for denim items, such as restyled denim.

"I think this show could become the number-one show in the East and really compete with the Boutique shows," he said.

Etty Andijar, owner of Next, a shop here, said she was shopping the show for some items to mix in with her designer lines. She was looking at athletic-stripe knitwear styles from Amanda Uprichard. Lydia Whalen, owner of Robert's Western Wear here, was walking the show looking for lace-up boots, painters' pants and color."We usually go to the western show in Denver, but I came to see some new things, the kind of thing I normally don't see," she said. Whalen said her open-to-buy was flexible, and that if she saw a line she liked, she would budget for it.

"We've been selling a lot of Levi's, colored shirts and denim shirts to women," she said. Joy Lynn Reckwerdt, buyer of Blue Skies Unltd., Islamadora, Fla., said she was looking for immediate items to fill the store's recently expanded floor space.

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