Prints, color and California are not words typically associated with Jil Sander, a collection anchored in strict devotion to minimalism and precision cuts. Yet those concepts unite in Jil Sander Navy, Raf Simons’ new casual collection that the Milan-based company is launching for spring 2011. “We are targeting all kinds of categories that aren’t completely represented in the main collection,” said Alessandro Cremonesi, chief executive officer of Jil Sander. “There will be some surprises in terms of prints and colors. But they are done the Jil Sander way.”
So bold magenta, orange and kelly green are interspersed among the house’s signature neutrals — khaki, black, white and, of course, navy — along with a few graphic stripes and a beachy print based on the work of 17th-century artist Abraham Mignon. Clean, simple shapes alternate between the structured, like crisp white shirtdresses, and the easy, as in bias cut jersey T-shirts shown with the traditional house oxfords, now in canvas, and gladiator sandals. All of it is done in Japanese or European fabrics with an emphasis on light weights in cotton voile, micro twill and nylon with techno gabardine.
Press and retailers can see the goods for themselves today at a preview for the collection held in Jil Sander’s New York showroom, a site specifically chosen to communicate the company’s focus on the U.S. market before it moves to Japan, another high priority, and then Milan. “The U.S. market has been really receptive,” said Cremonesi. “And it’s been requesting such a project from the collection.”
Navy, which retails from $125 for a T-shirt to $1,000 for a dress or trenchcoat, is priced well below the main collection. Just don’t call it Jil Sander’s lower-priced line. It’s all about the big picture according to Cremonesi.
“We’re more interested in if the price of the casual line will result in a repetitive buy,” he said. “It’s not just price positioning we’re looking for but also the lifestyle we wanted to interpret.”
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)
@heriethpaul and @gracebol have a moment on the @victoriassecret fashion show 2017. See every look from the runway on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo) #wwdfashion #victoriassecret #VSFashionShow
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia