HAMBURG -- Inspired by "great ladies, little geishas, naughty boys and the bad taste of our times," Wolfgang Joop's fall collection was a sometimes dazzling combination of naughty and nice. Cropped twinsets in cherry, coral, lemon blue or pink mohair were shown with short, pleated plaid schoolgirl skirts or with bared navels over low-slung, ankle-length wrap skirts. A little leather went a long way in looks like the black crepe suit, one side of the tailored jacket inset with black leather, over slightly belled pants and a white shirt, tie and stilettos. There were also sleeveless black leather turtlenecks worn with Prince of Wales plaid pants, handsome kimono-shaped coats in lush black wool or brown shearling, and glittering rhinestone-embroidered gray flannel minis. Joop's Rudi Gernreich-inspired looks were less convincing: black crepe HotPants with jet embroidered suspenders covering almost bare breasts and the just-below-the-knee dresses.

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