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Julia Heuse likes things dark, gritty and moving to a techno beat. Her fall men’s and women’s collection for Juliaandben, presented in the former Karl Marx bookstore, was all that but also reflected a surprisingly elegant sense of Berlin underground chic.
This story first appeared in the January 17, 2014 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
The designer mussed up silk, jersey and blanket wool in tie-dye prints based on photos of peeling walls and structures she passes each day en route to her Berlin studio. One such printed silk dress was little more than a floor-length shift but made a statement worn under a circular, cropped and mottled leather top, and with a raw leather harness by t.h.o.SH., whose belts, straps and other leather appendages were integrated throughout.
The flat, somewhat ravaged leathers were a strong point, especially as front panels on a tailored, elongated men’s flannel hoodie.