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Julia Heuse likes things dark, gritty and moving to a techno beat. Her fall men’s and women’s collection for Juliaandben, presented in the former Karl Marx bookstore, was all that but also reflected a surprisingly elegant sense of Berlin underground chic.
The designer mussed up silk, jersey and blanket wool in tie-dye prints based on photos of peeling walls and structures she passes each day en route to her Berlin studio. One such printed silk dress was little more than a floor-length shift but made a statement worn under a circular, cropped and mottled leather top, and with a raw leather harness by t.h.o.SH., whose belts, straps and other leather appendages were integrated throughout.
The flat, somewhat ravaged leathers were a strong point, especially as front panels on a tailored, elongated men’s flannel hoodie.