In the first season since his New York experiment, Karl Lagerfeld brought his signature collection back to Paris — and back to its roots.

He put that brief, brooding-Belgian moment behind him, and in stark black and white took his look sharp and graphic. Wielding just a hint of dark Eighties edge in its details, with notched straps and strips of patent, the collection’s core was made up of scores of dresses: filmy layered gowns and pretty minis. Cotton baby-doll dresses were cut with sharp flat ruffles, while Lagerfeld swagged and wrapped in jersey.

But aside from the occasional outlandish flourish, including a poufed Imelda Marcos sleeve, Lagerfeld focused on real, wearable clothes.

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