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For spring, Karolina Zmarlak focused on pieces with structure and texture. “It’s all about developed fabrics,” said Zmarlak. Thus, sturdy, tactical materials were cut in the architectural shapes for which Zmarlak has become known. There were hand-woven leather and rope vests and T-shirts in technical cotton, and several items, including a sheath dress, pencil skirt and structured tops, were done in an unusual techy creased knit.