Designer Antonio Marras has hit upon a formula chez Kenzo that he seems to apply in varying degrees every season.

For spring, as he toyed with volume, mismatched patterns and alluring decorative flourishes, Marras showed he’s interested in shoring up the house’s signature ethnic style while trying to cultivate a broader, more youthful appeal.

With a runway resembling a desert, Marras delivered fine dresses with volume in sleeves and billowing backs. Most came with a thick sash that tied into a bow at back, while others sported embroidered waists or collars, adding glitz to his mélange. For day, there were satin pantsuits in pink or green, and a fair amount of colorful tweed.

The designer was best when he kept it simple, as in the pink pleated chiffon column near the end of the show.

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